Leg 1 – Getting out of Rome!
We began the day with showers then packed and toddled off to breakfast. Wonderful Italian buffet. Then did a wee tiki tour of the camp on our way back to finish the packing and various bits. Then it was form the baggage train and off over gently cobbled paths to wait for the 10.30 shuttle. There were five of us piled on and soon on our way, but it seemed to be getting closer to the city rather than from it. Our driver suddenly pulled into this piazza hopped out and walked off (leaving the engine running) without a word. It kind of left us all feeling a bit gob-smacked and wondering whether we should’ve caught the 6.45 shuttle after all. Then we saw him crossing the piazza with a little guy in green doorman’s get up who picked up some bags and then they arrived with two other passengers tagging along. Next problem – getting out of the city. Our guy seemed to know what he was doing but the minutes to check in were getting eaten up. As we idled past a motor accident the guy next to me (one of the two) murmured that we were right now and it was only another 20 mins.
As soon as we arrived we flew into action trying to find the Cathay Pacific flight and arrived to find the ticketers were just closing off the flight. She gave us very helpful directions and we charged around the corner to find – not a queue, but a pile-up! Everyone was trying to get through 2 or 3 machines. I watched a guy ahead of us successfully get through and motioned to the rather tall blonde airport security lady that we were in the same boat. Through the xray check & I had asked about taking my laptop out but they waved it through only to have the second line of defence swing into action and want to check my bag! In the end he waved me through and we were off onto the connection shuttle to find we still had a bit of time left to shop for an iPod - Yes! – and some chocolates –Not!! I was still nauseous after the careering ride through Rome and had looked where I’d been told and found a queue of about 20 people and just had to get out of the shop. Denise found me in quite a distressed state which even her “pull-yourself-together-party” tricks didn’t help assuage! We climbed on board and she hit me with one of her ginger travellers pills which helped considerably.
Leg 2 – The flight
What can I say - movies, food, sleep. The Butterfly Effect is one weird movie! We landed safely at Hong Kong, got a bit to eat then set about our day of adventure.
Leg 3 – Hong Kong.
Smooth landing and no panic needed, even though we were behind schedule. We had a bit of a clean up then went through passport control and really started to take in the Hong Kong terminal. We had been directed to a day tour run by Vigor Tours (http://www.orientaltravel.com/tours/Hong_Kong/transit-tour.htm) so we found the desk and booked the Tour. Then it was breakfast and store our main cabin bag. and check out the shops for purchases later. Our plan – to be back by about 5 pm.
We joined the group, eight of us 2 French girls, 2 Indian, 1 South African, 1 Englishman and us, with this little old Chinese guy called Bob, and off we went. He showed us where we would get off our Airport Express Train, then we walked to our Tour Shuttle and off we went. Bob was a mine of information. “This is the biggest, the tallest, the longest… in the world.”
Three stops - The Lantau Link Viewing Platform, the Central District waterfront including the Avenue of Stars, getting on the Star Ferry, and after getting back on the bus we went up to the Hollywood Road & Man Mo Temple.
The Lantau Link was interesting, not so much for the view of the longest suspension bridge in the world but for the noise of the Hong Kong insect life. Think of the loudest hillside of cicadas and times it by 10 and you’re at the approximate noise level. Also, seeing the butterflies from Thames Butterfly House flying about in real life.
The Avenue of Stars was on the waterfront and had statues of Bruce Lee that everyone posed before, and hand prints of all the Chinese movie stars which everyone wanted to put their hands onto, right through to statues of the latest Anime ( a cartoon form) characters.
Finally, the Man Lo temple – a Taoist temple was fascinating. We asked Bob if we could take photos and he replied “Of course.” I was still a bit hesitant, being respectful and all that, until I got up to the main part of the sanctuary which would usually be the most sacred part, to be met by a sign “Souvenirs, Buy Here→” The goldwork was sublime and the incense was thick, with what we dubbed the Largest insect coils in the world, in honour of Bob. Outside was a furnace going full bore with a guy raking the ashes over and adding more stuff. This was the burning of money, paper cars, paper this, paper that, as an offering of what you had to the gods.
Then it was back down the hill to the Station. Bob left us there and we all went our separate ways. I had seen on one of the tour guides the Kowloon Walled City Garden, and so having asked Bob about it we left the Station to return to the other side by the Ferry. Mistake No.1 - we picked the wrong ferry and ended up at the other end of Kowloon City. It was a pleasant setting with people fishing and a restaurant, so we stopped and had a meal - Denise did Dim Sums and I did a noodle soup. We then asked how we might get from there to the gardens and got told to look out for a No. 6 minibus, but there didn’t seem to be one and got directed to a No 7 double-decker bus. The driver said he went there, so off we went. We made it up the hill to Boundary Road - the old boundary between Hong Kong/Kowloon and China – but a long way from where we wanted to go, then the bus turned back down the hill and finally came to a stop where he told us to walk to the end of the street and turn right and the gardens were there. We got off and did as directed and sure enough there they were. We began to explore and also realised we were cutting into our time schedule more than intended so our stroll was a little more forced. The gardens were quite stunning, even so.
Mistake No 2 - we didn’t check with Bob whether our map was current. It kind of was, except that most of the English names were no longer on the sings – all were Chinese names in Roman Script. We got to where we thought we were and from the map we thought we were only two or three blocks from the Star Ferry terminal. I think Denise agreed with me there, and on the direction we thought we should head. The further we went the more we realised that was wrong too, except we had gone down hill and there was no way we were going to go back up. So we started asking for help. As at Kowloon wharf, when we asked about taxis we got told again “No, no taxi, too expensive. Take a No. 5 bus. All No.5 go to Star Ferry.” We got to the bus stop just as a No 5 departed, and saw the stand for 5C. We/I asked whether a 5C went to Star Ferry and Yes it did. So after a couple of more buses along came not a 5 but a 5C, so we climbed aboard and sure enough the terminus for it was the Star Ferry terminal. We think now that the No 5 is the direct route and the 5C is the one that goes through the main streets of the city on the way. It was fascinating once we realised that was what was happening and took in the sights of the streets, and the sounds and looks of our fellow passengers. Finally we got to the wharf relieved and more than a little bit tired, and bought(!) our ferry tickets.
Earlier in the morning Denise and I had not been charged for our crossing but had passed through the free passage, with our tour guide, Bob, being with our grey and white hair, clearly senior citizens. I was conscious most of the day of getting very respectable, polite stares. I think the combination of such a young!! face and such white hair made for some puzzlement.
We got on the right ferry and back over the other side were able to safely negotiate our way to the Airport Express Train and were whisked back to the airport in 24 minutes.
The humidity and heat of the day, and probably a bit of jet lag, meant we were not overly hungry, but knew we needed to eat something. Contrary to my stated policy, the only thing that looked or felt palatable was a BK fish burger meal, for both of us.
Then we picked up the bag, repacked stuff and went back through passport control, handing back the 90 day visitor permits we were granted 12 hours earlier. We explored the duty free shopping precinct with sagging jaws at the amount one could spend. Having window shopped enough, we headed off to our Gate to be met with – you guessed it – flight delayed because the plane had not yet arrived. While sitting around I noticed I had what looked like an allergic reaction on my ankle, except it was on both legs. Took some Claratyne and rubbed Bepanthen in but they didn’t seem to have any effect and realised if they stayed or got worse would need to get them checked. We eventually boarded and off we flew.
Leg 3 - The flight #2
I read The Times and did their Sudokus then it was sleep time. I must have slept reasonably soundly but suddenly I felt wide awake. Checking the time on the screen I found it was just before 8 am NZ time and just another four hours to go. With the whole plane in darkness it was easy for the hostesses to spot those who were awake and found that they very helpfully provided snacks, peanuts, pretzels, sandwiches and icecreams, and drinks for those who were awake. Then we were in descent mode and landed at 12.50, only an hour late.
Clearance through customs was a breeze. The sniffer beagle responded to Denise’s bag but when she said it was medication that was fine, the handler said that he wasn’t after that sort of stuff. Through the Biosecurity X-Ray machine and out into the concourse to be met by Adrienne. We were back!
Leg 4 - The drive home.
After soup at Adrienne's and a quick chat we were on our way home, but only got as far as Mercer before I needed a wee sleep so we pulled over and I did just that. It was enough and the rest of the trip was a breeze, even though I was wearing my Italian racing driver cap!
Good to be home. Now it’s time to bore Kieran night after night with tales of travel and catch up with his goings on.
PS. All the photos are there, I had been trying to open those I’d deleted!
PPS. Checked the legs out with the doctor and he’s happy with them with the usual warning - If they swell come back immediately.
PPPS. Got the teeth repaired as well, so 'm back to full fighting fitness!
Now how to get photos from the computer sorted and named and into the blog or Flickr or both. That’ll keep me busy at work for months!
All in all a wonderful trip, a marvellous experience, and very happy to be back home!
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Day 18 * On our way home via Rome * 6/6/08
Well it was a good sleep. I didn’t wake til just before 7.30 and we started the final packing from Katy’s place. A simple toast and coffee breakfast, and tidying then it was goodbye to Sofia and into Mr Tiripelli’s car. Again it decided not to start and Katy gt Grant to come back to drive us into town. All the while Sofia was standing on the step with this look of “I thought you guys said goodbye and were going.” We transferred our luggage while Grant and Katy wondered what to do with Mr T’s car, as Grant had managed to get it started.
Final goodbyes to Katy and it was off to Figline station via Camping Village Girasole where Grant is based, then "ciao ciao" to Grant. We had a coffee and bought some filled rolls to have on the train and waited for our connection, which was 10–15 mins late. We left just before noon.
The trip down to Rome was interesting, first going through Tuscany and past a number of villages with old castles. Interesting to see also the changing building styles and the harvesting practices – fields of wheat with patches cut down and harvested while the rest of the field was still growing.
At one stop the carbinieri wandered through looking at faces but no one in first class matched who they might have been after. We took a list of the towns we went through to try and match some of the photos we took along the way.
Our carriage was supposed to be air-conditioned, but for that to work the doors and windows were supposed to be closed. Did that happen? Not on your nelly! At least 6 windows were open most of the time – especially during the tunnels, where everyone’s eardrums got pulverised, and then some when a train happened to be going past the other way.
We got into Rome about three and started looking for Katy’s instructions to get to Camping Village Roma, part of the chain that Grant is working for. We had to take the Metro which meant a couple of flights of escalators and me with my baggage train again making the locals laugh - especially some pretty young teenage ones!. Got our Metro ticket and then realised I couldn’t fit through the turnstile til they pointed out the wheelchair access way. I managed to leave my ticket in the machine which caused Denise to call me back, otherwise I wouldn’t have had a chance if the inspectors had caught me. Down some more escalators and onto the Metro - then seven stops later we were at Il Cipro station. I took the elevator up which totally disoriented me as I couldn’t see the bus stop at first. we re-read the instructions –carefully – looked up to the left and there were the buses including one which looked like the shuttle. Asked a young man by the door Camp Roma, and there it was. On with the luggage and us and off to the camping ground.
They were expecting us and apart from not taking proper care in reading the camp map we found our serviceable little bungalow – 2 beds & a bunk, toilet and shower in a separate bathroom. Reading the brochures, seeing Italy through these camping grounds (plusted.com) would be a very convenient cheap & comfortable holiday. I was able to hire towels, shop at the camp supermarket - better stocked than some of our corner dairies, then Denise and I went to the camp restaurant Sunset Hills for a superb final dinner in Italy – antipasto, fettucine and fish for me, antipasto, canneloni and veal for Denise, followed by fruit salad and coffee and a grappe to salute the trip for me.
A next to final pack and its lights out.
Wonderful thanks to Grant and Katy for their hospitality in Ponte Agli Stolli and their extended help to us in Rome. It just helped finish the trip off nicely!
Final goodbyes to Katy and it was off to Figline station via Camping Village Girasole where Grant is based, then "ciao ciao" to Grant. We had a coffee and bought some filled rolls to have on the train and waited for our connection, which was 10–15 mins late. We left just before noon.
The trip down to Rome was interesting, first going through Tuscany and past a number of villages with old castles. Interesting to see also the changing building styles and the harvesting practices – fields of wheat with patches cut down and harvested while the rest of the field was still growing.
At one stop the carbinieri wandered through looking at faces but no one in first class matched who they might have been after. We took a list of the towns we went through to try and match some of the photos we took along the way.
Our carriage was supposed to be air-conditioned, but for that to work the doors and windows were supposed to be closed. Did that happen? Not on your nelly! At least 6 windows were open most of the time – especially during the tunnels, where everyone’s eardrums got pulverised, and then some when a train happened to be going past the other way.
We got into Rome about three and started looking for Katy’s instructions to get to Camping Village Roma, part of the chain that Grant is working for. We had to take the Metro which meant a couple of flights of escalators and me with my baggage train again making the locals laugh - especially some pretty young teenage ones!. Got our Metro ticket and then realised I couldn’t fit through the turnstile til they pointed out the wheelchair access way. I managed to leave my ticket in the machine which caused Denise to call me back, otherwise I wouldn’t have had a chance if the inspectors had caught me. Down some more escalators and onto the Metro - then seven stops later we were at Il Cipro station. I took the elevator up which totally disoriented me as I couldn’t see the bus stop at first. we re-read the instructions –carefully – looked up to the left and there were the buses including one which looked like the shuttle. Asked a young man by the door Camp Roma, and there it was. On with the luggage and us and off to the camping ground.
They were expecting us and apart from not taking proper care in reading the camp map we found our serviceable little bungalow – 2 beds & a bunk, toilet and shower in a separate bathroom. Reading the brochures, seeing Italy through these camping grounds (plusted.com) would be a very convenient cheap & comfortable holiday. I was able to hire towels, shop at the camp supermarket - better stocked than some of our corner dairies, then Denise and I went to the camp restaurant Sunset Hills for a superb final dinner in Italy – antipasto, fettucine and fish for me, antipasto, canneloni and veal for Denise, followed by fruit salad and coffee and a grappe to salute the trip for me.
A next to final pack and its lights out.
Wonderful thanks to Grant and Katy for their hospitality in Ponte Agli Stolli and their extended help to us in Rome. It just helped finish the trip off nicely!
Day 17 * Firenze in the Rain * 5/6/08
The day started brightly with first light and the sounds of swallows flying around the complex of buildings. Breakfast was a leisurely affair til Grant said time to go then we were off, or were we?
All piled into the hired Renault and it wouldn’t start. Battery? No, because it was clearly turning the engine over. Fuel was more than fine. The security system hadn’t been engaged but was checked again. In the end with a few of the neighbours looking on we pushed it back, then gave a run down the road - not a lot of room before it went steep. Grant let out the clutch but nothing seemed to happen but he tried the ignition again and it started just like new. Off to pick up the Audi so he could get to his Italian lessons, then Katy delivered us to the station. We had a wee wait, but it gave us time to check our tickets for tomorrow as well as the trip into Firenze, then a walk around the town a bit, a drink and it was time for the train. We were able to check out tomorrow’s train for seating arrangements which arrived before our one did. Then off we went. We prepared for the tunnels and instead got sunlit scenery as it took an alternative route in, stopping at all the little towns in between Figline and Firenze.
Katy had given us their PlusFirenze map which outlined important features, and she also gave us clues about queues (avoid them unless there is something you really want to see), churches (shorts not acceptable so you need trousers), beggars (it’s an old profession) and the overlap with the pickpockets (wear your backpack on your front and be aware of who is in your surroundings!). We decided on a walking route which would take us past churches, but not in them so I wore shorts for the day.
Florentines know how to build big. The churches, palaces and public buildings are amazing, especially those that have been maintained. What was also present that was unexpected, though Katy and Grant had mentioned it, were the tourists – they were everywhere (of course we are not really tourists either!!?) We wandered down lanes and vias, and in one street we were suddenly aware of all the brands Beneton, Versace, Prada, and others. Their products in the windows were all without price tags and we guessed that if you had to ask for the prices you needn’t bother going in.
The cars, buses, taxis and scooters all seemed to claim the whole road and dared you to cross in front of them. I’m reminded of Paul Hogan doing his thing with the dogs in New York in crocodile Dundee. All you needed to do was to catch their eye and stare these drivers down.
We wandered over the river and towards the Palazza Pitti and Boboli Gardens, and on the way found ourselves a neat little eating house with good food. Denise had bought an umbrella near the station, and as we finished the meal it started to spit. By the time we were at the Piazza of the Palace it was a bit more steady so I bought one of a Somali man who had materialised with a number of others with piles of umbrellas for sale. We went to get a ticket to see the gardens but couldn’t do them as a separate tour from one of the Palace’s sets of galleries, so decided to give it a miss. We ere enjoying the jumble of people, cars, smells, noise, history and modern kitschy stuff, as well as the wealth and opulence that comes from really old money.
This was most evident at the Ponte Vecchio where the goldsmiths and jewellers have their shops on the bridge over the river. I haven’t seen so much wealth on display in such a small area ever.
Turned right down the Medici Walk and then towards the city square. Got waylaid by a “statue,” a mime artist who would move and pose with you while your partner took a photo. Carried on past the queue formed for the Uffizi Galleries and into the square with statues galore. The copy of David, and many others all got included i a free range camera. Took another alley like street until we came to the main cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. The paintwork and sculpture and exterior were simply magnificent and I fear the photos haven’t done it justice. (We’ve bought postcards just in case!)
Then back to the station for coffee, one of the quickest I’ve ever had anywhere, a toilet stop in some of the grottiest I’ve ever been in, and then onto the train back to Figline.
The train did the tunnels this time and two windows on the carriage were down so our ears got a real pounding.
Got to Figline in another downpour and walked to the town square to meet up with Katy. While waiting I saw a sports shop and we went in. I found a nice pair of Adidas shoes which will do nicely for fencing for only €63. The assistant was most helpful and understood fencing as “skirma”, and helped me try on a few pair of different sorts.
We got back and played a bit with Sofia, then had “aperitivo” followed by our evening meal - a kind of bread, tomato, olive oil, garlic and basil slow baked dish, washed down with a good red or two.
Got the blog up to date on line and checked on emails. Sad to read Boyd Glassey had died. He had quite an influence on me over the years in different ways – some through Dad, some through counselling.
Then to bed to get ready for the adventure of going to Roma and homa!!
All piled into the hired Renault and it wouldn’t start. Battery? No, because it was clearly turning the engine over. Fuel was more than fine. The security system hadn’t been engaged but was checked again. In the end with a few of the neighbours looking on we pushed it back, then gave a run down the road - not a lot of room before it went steep. Grant let out the clutch but nothing seemed to happen but he tried the ignition again and it started just like new. Off to pick up the Audi so he could get to his Italian lessons, then Katy delivered us to the station. We had a wee wait, but it gave us time to check our tickets for tomorrow as well as the trip into Firenze, then a walk around the town a bit, a drink and it was time for the train. We were able to check out tomorrow’s train for seating arrangements which arrived before our one did. Then off we went. We prepared for the tunnels and instead got sunlit scenery as it took an alternative route in, stopping at all the little towns in between Figline and Firenze.
Katy had given us their PlusFirenze map which outlined important features, and she also gave us clues about queues (avoid them unless there is something you really want to see), churches (shorts not acceptable so you need trousers), beggars (it’s an old profession) and the overlap with the pickpockets (wear your backpack on your front and be aware of who is in your surroundings!). We decided on a walking route which would take us past churches, but not in them so I wore shorts for the day.
Florentines know how to build big. The churches, palaces and public buildings are amazing, especially those that have been maintained. What was also present that was unexpected, though Katy and Grant had mentioned it, were the tourists – they were everywhere (of course we are not really tourists either!!?) We wandered down lanes and vias, and in one street we were suddenly aware of all the brands Beneton, Versace, Prada, and others. Their products in the windows were all without price tags and we guessed that if you had to ask for the prices you needn’t bother going in.
The cars, buses, taxis and scooters all seemed to claim the whole road and dared you to cross in front of them. I’m reminded of Paul Hogan doing his thing with the dogs in New York in crocodile Dundee. All you needed to do was to catch their eye and stare these drivers down.
We wandered over the river and towards the Palazza Pitti and Boboli Gardens, and on the way found ourselves a neat little eating house with good food. Denise had bought an umbrella near the station, and as we finished the meal it started to spit. By the time we were at the Piazza of the Palace it was a bit more steady so I bought one of a Somali man who had materialised with a number of others with piles of umbrellas for sale. We went to get a ticket to see the gardens but couldn’t do them as a separate tour from one of the Palace’s sets of galleries, so decided to give it a miss. We ere enjoying the jumble of people, cars, smells, noise, history and modern kitschy stuff, as well as the wealth and opulence that comes from really old money.
This was most evident at the Ponte Vecchio where the goldsmiths and jewellers have their shops on the bridge over the river. I haven’t seen so much wealth on display in such a small area ever.
Turned right down the Medici Walk and then towards the city square. Got waylaid by a “statue,” a mime artist who would move and pose with you while your partner took a photo. Carried on past the queue formed for the Uffizi Galleries and into the square with statues galore. The copy of David, and many others all got included i a free range camera. Took another alley like street until we came to the main cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. The paintwork and sculpture and exterior were simply magnificent and I fear the photos haven’t done it justice. (We’ve bought postcards just in case!)
Then back to the station for coffee, one of the quickest I’ve ever had anywhere, a toilet stop in some of the grottiest I’ve ever been in, and then onto the train back to Figline.
The train did the tunnels this time and two windows on the carriage were down so our ears got a real pounding.
Got to Figline in another downpour and walked to the town square to meet up with Katy. While waiting I saw a sports shop and we went in. I found a nice pair of Adidas shoes which will do nicely for fencing for only €63. The assistant was most helpful and understood fencing as “skirma”, and helped me try on a few pair of different sorts.
We got back and played a bit with Sofia, then had “aperitivo” followed by our evening meal - a kind of bread, tomato, olive oil, garlic and basil slow baked dish, washed down with a good red or two.
Got the blog up to date on line and checked on emails. Sad to read Boyd Glassey had died. He had quite an influence on me over the years in different ways – some through Dad, some through counselling.
Then to bed to get ready for the adventure of going to Roma and homa!!
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Day 16 * Exploring a Tuscan village and countryside * 4/6/08
We woke at about 6 with birds singing merrily, but dropped back off to sleep to find us reawakening at 8.30. Showers, breakfast, talk and then it was off for a walk around the village and surrounding area. Katy told us much about everything and was an excellent guide. The walk took us up to the winery of the brand we drank for dinner last night. Fascinating seeing lizards just sitting in the sun. Then it was back to the village and up to the top with a view of the old monastery being converted into apartments, and also the estate of the one and only Sting, and Grant’s employers hotel. On the way we stopped at a place that breeds tortoises in their backyard.
Katy and Grant’s dealings with Italian bureaucracy seemed amazing & funny now, but not during the whole process, but then they’ve perfected their systems over many centuries and as Katy observed, despite the frustration of how many bits of paper they seemed to want, it was always easier than trying to argue the point, because the officials would just put up the shutters.
Then back home for a lunch of buffalo mozarella and tomato, olive oil and basil, and a nana nap. Haven’t had a lot of chance for those.
After the nap and afternoon tea, it was off for a bit of an explore, picking up a rental car from Tiripelli Motors where we experienced first hand how the Italian lifestyle and love of bureaucracy worked, and we ended up at Montevarchi at the Ipercoop doing the shopping thing. It was rather like The Warehouse gone big and mad with supermarket and everything else besides.
Back to Figline through he Italian rush hour traffic, which wasn’t so bad once you realised what the rules were, & found a park near the station. Then we walked around the town for a wee while, saw the lovely town square with the house that referred to Marsello Ficino the Italian renaissance philosopher, and then headed to the station to pick up Grant coming back from a training session in Venice. Driving back through Figline I noticed a street named after Antonio Gramsci, a modern philosopher who tried to humanise Marxism for Italy.
Back at Ponte Agli Stolle it was BBQ time with chicken, steak and sausage, with Sofia performing as a wee tired lady in the background. Dinner was very pleasant but then it was ten o’clock and Denise started to nod off so for us – time for bed, and another happy day in this Tuscan paradise.
Katy and Grant’s dealings with Italian bureaucracy seemed amazing & funny now, but not during the whole process, but then they’ve perfected their systems over many centuries and as Katy observed, despite the frustration of how many bits of paper they seemed to want, it was always easier than trying to argue the point, because the officials would just put up the shutters.
Then back home for a lunch of buffalo mozarella and tomato, olive oil and basil, and a nana nap. Haven’t had a lot of chance for those.
After the nap and afternoon tea, it was off for a bit of an explore, picking up a rental car from Tiripelli Motors where we experienced first hand how the Italian lifestyle and love of bureaucracy worked, and we ended up at Montevarchi at the Ipercoop doing the shopping thing. It was rather like The Warehouse gone big and mad with supermarket and everything else besides.
Back to Figline through he Italian rush hour traffic, which wasn’t so bad once you realised what the rules were, & found a park near the station. Then we walked around the town for a wee while, saw the lovely town square with the house that referred to Marsello Ficino the Italian renaissance philosopher, and then headed to the station to pick up Grant coming back from a training session in Venice. Driving back through Figline I noticed a street named after Antonio Gramsci, a modern philosopher who tried to humanise Marxism for Italy.
Back at Ponte Agli Stolle it was BBQ time with chicken, steak and sausage, with Sofia performing as a wee tired lady in the background. Dinner was very pleasant but then it was ten o’clock and Denise started to nod off so for us – time for bed, and another happy day in this Tuscan paradise.
Day 15 * A Train or Two to Tuscany * 3/6/08
This was on the itinerary as possibly the most difficult for travelling, with two connections in Switzerland and two in Italy.
We began with breakfast with the Friebe’s and said good-bye to Paul, Margrit and Susann, and the Coopers and went back to the hotel to do the last minute packing. Kathrin and Philippe (brother) came down and collected us and took us to the station at Frauenfeld so that was one connection less to worry about - there is only 2–3 minutes between the Wängi train and the train to Zurich.
So there we were, ready to go and only these last good-byes, with heaps of photos. It has been wonderful seeing Kathrin again as this mature young married woman, full of confidence, and while we were sad to finally be leaving , we were glad to have been with them all for this wonderful wedding. Meeting her husband Philippe has also been nice and we have been able to make the odd joke about having two sets of in-laws.
One good thing about going by train is that when it arrives you’ve got to get on and it goes, so with final hugs and waves we were Zurich bound.
Then after three days of travel on Swiss trains we finally got our Eurrail pass stamped by a conductor. It means we’ve officially got 4 days of travel left and only three to do it all in.
Zurich station was cruisey as we had time to be able to buy some fruit and stuff, get films at an exorbitant price and buy a Swiss Army knife so we could slice the sausage and cheese onto the sandwiches Margrit had prepared for us. We boarded our train, the Cis Alpino, for Milano and were off, having carefully packed our Swiss map so that we ended up writing down station names in order to remember which way we went.
Not long after Zug we were in mountain country and started climbing through the Alps. It was a natural version of the baroque church experience of going “Wow look at that”, except we were facing each other and got two different perspectives of the scenery. Speedy trains don’t help your photography skills and I’ve already deleted several blurs from the card. The we were in the Gotthard where the train wends its way past Wässen three times going through these amazingly long tunnels, and each time the town is further below you, on the right, the left, the right, with the church standing out as a constant feature.
Then down into Logorno and this amazing picture postcard setting of city, lake and mountains. All through that part of the trip the waterfalls had been bringing down the spring melt, and at one point saw where the road went through a tunnel with the waterfall going over the top of the tunnel.
The train stopped at Chiasso for passport control. A young man from Christchurch in the seat in front was asked what he was doing, why he was travelling and whether he had anything to declare. The a Swiss couple who had left stuff next to him and sat elsewhere in the carriage, got a the full shake down, getting their rights read, and then they came to us, took one look at us and passed on, so I’m not sure what we’ve got that everyone else hasn’t - all we want is a stamp in our passport!
Then we were out of the mountains and onto the industrial strip of the north going down into Milano. Got off the train and started looking for the next one. There are two sets of timetables - the permanent paper ones in glass cases and the ones on the main board. I managed to have us heading each time today in the direction of the theoretical platform, rather than where the train was actually leaving from. It didn’t matter that much as we had plenty of time for the interchange. Then off to Firenze.
First class in Italy seems to be used by everyone, whereas on the Swiss trains there always seemed to be room in first class. This train seemed to have lots of business types on it all pulling out their laptops, doing the Internet and chatting on their mobiles. The scenery reminded me a bit of the American mid-West with everything flat and no distant landmarks , except that the houses looked a very much lot older. The very elegant lady opposite us gave us little bits of help and as we came into Bologna she pointed out the great church of St Luca which sits on a hill overlooking the city, and she clearly thought we should know something about her home city. She bade us farewell and it was on our way again. Finally people started making moves to get off so I went to rescue the bags from the luggage space. I looked out the window to see we were going to get off in a huge downpour that had caught everyone by surprise.
Denise had got out another door so she didn’t have to struggle through the carriage, but where I was, the door refused to open so I had to go through to the next carriage. But there we were, and the signage seemed a bit limited so we asked a platform assistant who told us which train to look for – paper vs electronic Again! We bought a sandwich and muffin and found our connection, climbed on and off we went waiting expectantly for the Tuscan countryside to appear. It wasn’t the rain that stopped the view but the amazingly long tunnels, 2 or 3, from which the train emerged almost at Figline Valdarno. Got off the train and followed the crowds and got a txt from Katy saying she was held up in traffic. As we were standing in a car park we presumed that is where she’d come, but after a little while thought she could be on the other side by the station. As I went through the tunnel to check I got a txt to that effect.
A quick drive through the town & countryside and we were at Katy and Grant’s place in Ponte Agli Stolle with little Sofia doing her “impress the visitors” tricks. She is a darling.
An evening meal and off to bed a bit travel weary but happy.
We began with breakfast with the Friebe’s and said good-bye to Paul, Margrit and Susann, and the Coopers and went back to the hotel to do the last minute packing. Kathrin and Philippe (brother) came down and collected us and took us to the station at Frauenfeld so that was one connection less to worry about - there is only 2–3 minutes between the Wängi train and the train to Zurich.
So there we were, ready to go and only these last good-byes, with heaps of photos. It has been wonderful seeing Kathrin again as this mature young married woman, full of confidence, and while we were sad to finally be leaving , we were glad to have been with them all for this wonderful wedding. Meeting her husband Philippe has also been nice and we have been able to make the odd joke about having two sets of in-laws.
One good thing about going by train is that when it arrives you’ve got to get on and it goes, so with final hugs and waves we were Zurich bound.
Then after three days of travel on Swiss trains we finally got our Eurrail pass stamped by a conductor. It means we’ve officially got 4 days of travel left and only three to do it all in.
Zurich station was cruisey as we had time to be able to buy some fruit and stuff, get films at an exorbitant price and buy a Swiss Army knife so we could slice the sausage and cheese onto the sandwiches Margrit had prepared for us. We boarded our train, the Cis Alpino, for Milano and were off, having carefully packed our Swiss map so that we ended up writing down station names in order to remember which way we went.
Not long after Zug we were in mountain country and started climbing through the Alps. It was a natural version of the baroque church experience of going “Wow look at that”, except we were facing each other and got two different perspectives of the scenery. Speedy trains don’t help your photography skills and I’ve already deleted several blurs from the card. The we were in the Gotthard where the train wends its way past Wässen three times going through these amazingly long tunnels, and each time the town is further below you, on the right, the left, the right, with the church standing out as a constant feature.
Then down into Logorno and this amazing picture postcard setting of city, lake and mountains. All through that part of the trip the waterfalls had been bringing down the spring melt, and at one point saw where the road went through a tunnel with the waterfall going over the top of the tunnel.
The train stopped at Chiasso for passport control. A young man from Christchurch in the seat in front was asked what he was doing, why he was travelling and whether he had anything to declare. The a Swiss couple who had left stuff next to him and sat elsewhere in the carriage, got a the full shake down, getting their rights read, and then they came to us, took one look at us and passed on, so I’m not sure what we’ve got that everyone else hasn’t - all we want is a stamp in our passport!
Then we were out of the mountains and onto the industrial strip of the north going down into Milano. Got off the train and started looking for the next one. There are two sets of timetables - the permanent paper ones in glass cases and the ones on the main board. I managed to have us heading each time today in the direction of the theoretical platform, rather than where the train was actually leaving from. It didn’t matter that much as we had plenty of time for the interchange. Then off to Firenze.
First class in Italy seems to be used by everyone, whereas on the Swiss trains there always seemed to be room in first class. This train seemed to have lots of business types on it all pulling out their laptops, doing the Internet and chatting on their mobiles. The scenery reminded me a bit of the American mid-West with everything flat and no distant landmarks , except that the houses looked a very much lot older. The very elegant lady opposite us gave us little bits of help and as we came into Bologna she pointed out the great church of St Luca which sits on a hill overlooking the city, and she clearly thought we should know something about her home city. She bade us farewell and it was on our way again. Finally people started making moves to get off so I went to rescue the bags from the luggage space. I looked out the window to see we were going to get off in a huge downpour that had caught everyone by surprise.
Denise had got out another door so she didn’t have to struggle through the carriage, but where I was, the door refused to open so I had to go through to the next carriage. But there we were, and the signage seemed a bit limited so we asked a platform assistant who told us which train to look for – paper vs electronic Again! We bought a sandwich and muffin and found our connection, climbed on and off we went waiting expectantly for the Tuscan countryside to appear. It wasn’t the rain that stopped the view but the amazingly long tunnels, 2 or 3, from which the train emerged almost at Figline Valdarno. Got off the train and followed the crowds and got a txt from Katy saying she was held up in traffic. As we were standing in a car park we presumed that is where she’d come, but after a little while thought she could be on the other side by the station. As I went through the tunnel to check I got a txt to that effect.
A quick drive through the town & countryside and we were at Katy and Grant’s place in Ponte Agli Stolle with little Sofia doing her “impress the visitors” tricks. She is a darling.
An evening meal and off to bed a bit travel weary but happy.
Day 14 * A Day in Appenzell * 2/6/08
After breakfast it was into the three cars and off to Appenzell for the day. Denise & I travelled with Margrit. She took us through her father & grandfather's village of Hündwil, then into Appenzell town for a brief stop & on to Ebenalp. Hündwil was the last village in Appenzell Canton (which was the last canton to do it also) to give women the vote and did this in 1987. Today the village still manages its affairs by a public meeting and show of hands for any vote. We took the gondola to the top of Ebenalp, 1600 m. The view was more stunning than I remembered, partly through the weather, but also the spring pastures were lush green with their flowers in bloom, and the winter snow still on the melt, with a few waterfalls to be seen as well.
We walked around the top, saw some rock-climbers and a few birds called Alpen-raben, quite different from the common Rabens, or ravens. These ones were swooping over us quite closely & Philippe said they were looking for cheese & would take it from the hand.
Margrit arranged for us all to have lunch at the restaurant there & we had the noodle dish Denise had the other nite without the mince and with more cheese!!– much nicer.
After lunch we went down the path and through a cave where a giant bear fossil had been found, to the Wildkirchli. Terry didn't like heights & stayed back. Mary & Margrit were having fun chasing alpine flowers & butterflies (Schmettering). The cave & chapel were still impressive. The chapel had been there some centuries & became the focal point for a hermit monastic colony. The preacher’s house was a 2 room hut joined to the side of the mountain. Mary, Denise & I went a little lower & coming round a corner found ourselves facing another guesthouse. Coming back up was more difficult for Denise than I thought it would be, her lungs struggling in the thinner air.But she said it had been worth it (when she got her breath back!).
Back on to the gondola at the top where it was a mild 19° & down to the bottom with the temperature now 25°. From there it was back to Appenzell & danger territory for cameras that seemed to have a mind of their own. Souvenir shopping in Post Card Switzerland. We spent a good hour or so wandering around along with heaps of other tourists of all types. By now the temperature was well over 30º and in one shop window facing the sun their thermometer read 42º
A wee drive to one of the Appenzell cheese factories where we saw a movie incorporating some tradional customs and the modern techniques, saw some cheese being presses, more souvenirs, then a sleepy drive home.
Dinner was BBQ organised by Philippe, Susann, & Kathrin. Pork, sausage & horse, all with a tuna & barley salad & mixed braised vegetables, more wine & water. The Friebes have fed us well all week and their hospitality has been overwhelming.
We lasted till Paul came home from work at 10 pm, then back to the hotel. We settled the account (CHF 480) then the chef offered me some salami & when I said it was good, got presented with three salamis. Wow! It was their honour to have us stay with them.
We walked around the top, saw some rock-climbers and a few birds called Alpen-raben, quite different from the common Rabens, or ravens. These ones were swooping over us quite closely & Philippe said they were looking for cheese & would take it from the hand.
Margrit arranged for us all to have lunch at the restaurant there & we had the noodle dish Denise had the other nite without the mince and with more cheese!!– much nicer.
After lunch we went down the path and through a cave where a giant bear fossil had been found, to the Wildkirchli. Terry didn't like heights & stayed back. Mary & Margrit were having fun chasing alpine flowers & butterflies (Schmettering). The cave & chapel were still impressive. The chapel had been there some centuries & became the focal point for a hermit monastic colony. The preacher’s house was a 2 room hut joined to the side of the mountain. Mary, Denise & I went a little lower & coming round a corner found ourselves facing another guesthouse. Coming back up was more difficult for Denise than I thought it would be, her lungs struggling in the thinner air.But she said it had been worth it (when she got her breath back!).
Back on to the gondola at the top where it was a mild 19° & down to the bottom with the temperature now 25°. From there it was back to Appenzell & danger territory for cameras that seemed to have a mind of their own. Souvenir shopping in Post Card Switzerland. We spent a good hour or so wandering around along with heaps of other tourists of all types. By now the temperature was well over 30º and in one shop window facing the sun their thermometer read 42º
A wee drive to one of the Appenzell cheese factories where we saw a movie incorporating some tradional customs and the modern techniques, saw some cheese being presses, more souvenirs, then a sleepy drive home.
Dinner was BBQ organised by Philippe, Susann, & Kathrin. Pork, sausage & horse, all with a tuna & barley salad & mixed braised vegetables, more wine & water. The Friebes have fed us well all week and their hospitality has been overwhelming.
We lasted till Paul came home from work at 10 pm, then back to the hotel. We settled the account (CHF 480) then the chef offered me some salami & when I said it was good, got presented with three salamis. Wow! It was their honour to have us stay with them.
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Day 13* Unteragerisee and a Tour back to Wangi
After a refreshing sleep, we rose and went down to a sumptuous breakfast, with lots of good espresso to help it down. The Friebe’s had a bit of work getting presents back to Bonstetten and cleaning up at the hotel, and at the church to complete, so we were left to our own devices. We went to check out only to find our bill had been settled by Paul. Their reasoning was that the Coopers and we had already paid enough to come to the wedding, and it was their honour to have us. We accepted this most gracious gift to us. We’ve all four of us experienced a real generosity of spirit being extended to us, not just by the Friebe’s but by all the Swiss we’ve met.
Denise and I went walking in and around the town and the edge of the lake and finished up back at the hotel where I had a first attempt to get some photos on to the Internet. The walk gave us some much needed exercise through some meadows, but not to the lake edge. Back in town Denise bought some lunch and we walked the other direction to where we got on the boat, and found a delightful setting in front of the fountain and looking up at the surrounding hillside with its houses and fields and forests. Going around the lake had reminded us all very much of parts of the Sounds, with deep green water and forest down to the edge with the odd house on the shoreline.
Then back to the hotel and we began writing our journals and sharing reflections until Paul and Margrit arrived to take us all back to Wängi.
We had four tourist stops along the way. The first was above the city of Rapperswil at one end of the Zurichsee and which I managed to insist was Zurich – a third time being totally 180º disoriented!? Paul and Margrit found it very amusing and so did Denise – NOT!
The second was going up the side of the Iddaborg mountain and there was a view of some of the Alps including the mountain Santis, 2900 m, and with a restaurant on the top.
The third stop was at Iddaborg itself. It is on one of the old pilgrim ways and has a shrine to Idda, a woman who was accused by her husband of being unfaithful so he threw her off the top, but instead of falling to her death she fell into a grotto just below and was saved (though apparently it was really the work of angels and Mary). We walked down to the shrine and thanks to some hymn sheets there I became Catholic for a moment and sang a couple of verses of the Ave Maria in Geman. The acoustics were lovely. Then back up to the top and into the small church which has a black Madonna. It is the only one in central Europe and the most easterly one. I think they think it was brought by Spanish pilgrims. We followed this with tea and coffee and reluctantly it was agreed that Terry would be allowed to pay.
Back into the cars and down to the monastery at Fischingen. Last visit the church was closed but this time it wasn’t and a full Baroque church in all its breathtaking glory was revealed.
Finally we got home and there Kathrin and Philippe with the help of Susann and brother Philippe had prepared the evening meal – lasagne.
A moment of horror though, for me, I tried to get some photos of the wedding onto the net and found that the last 200 taken are unable to be opened off the memory stick. I tried again back at the hotel and still no luck. I can still see everything I’ve taken so I’m not sure what I can do. I’m hoping when I get home I can recover them via the USB connection.
On our return to the hotel, our host Herr Haffner was waiting and invited me to join him for a glass of beer. This I did and we had a long conversation about life in New Zealand and Switzerland. Time for bed.
Denise and I went walking in and around the town and the edge of the lake and finished up back at the hotel where I had a first attempt to get some photos on to the Internet. The walk gave us some much needed exercise through some meadows, but not to the lake edge. Back in town Denise bought some lunch and we walked the other direction to where we got on the boat, and found a delightful setting in front of the fountain and looking up at the surrounding hillside with its houses and fields and forests. Going around the lake had reminded us all very much of parts of the Sounds, with deep green water and forest down to the edge with the odd house on the shoreline.
Then back to the hotel and we began writing our journals and sharing reflections until Paul and Margrit arrived to take us all back to Wängi.
We had four tourist stops along the way. The first was above the city of Rapperswil at one end of the Zurichsee and which I managed to insist was Zurich – a third time being totally 180º disoriented!? Paul and Margrit found it very amusing and so did Denise – NOT!
The second was going up the side of the Iddaborg mountain and there was a view of some of the Alps including the mountain Santis, 2900 m, and with a restaurant on the top.
The third stop was at Iddaborg itself. It is on one of the old pilgrim ways and has a shrine to Idda, a woman who was accused by her husband of being unfaithful so he threw her off the top, but instead of falling to her death she fell into a grotto just below and was saved (though apparently it was really the work of angels and Mary). We walked down to the shrine and thanks to some hymn sheets there I became Catholic for a moment and sang a couple of verses of the Ave Maria in Geman. The acoustics were lovely. Then back up to the top and into the small church which has a black Madonna. It is the only one in central Europe and the most easterly one. I think they think it was brought by Spanish pilgrims. We followed this with tea and coffee and reluctantly it was agreed that Terry would be allowed to pay.
Back into the cars and down to the monastery at Fischingen. Last visit the church was closed but this time it wasn’t and a full Baroque church in all its breathtaking glory was revealed.
Finally we got home and there Kathrin and Philippe with the help of Susann and brother Philippe had prepared the evening meal – lasagne.
A moment of horror though, for me, I tried to get some photos of the wedding onto the net and found that the last 200 taken are unable to be opened off the memory stick. I tried again back at the hotel and still no luck. I can still see everything I’ve taken so I’m not sure what I can do. I’m hoping when I get home I can recover them via the USB connection.
On our return to the hotel, our host Herr Haffner was waiting and invited me to join him for a glass of beer. This I did and we had a long conversation about life in New Zealand and Switzerland. Time for bed.
Day 12 * The Wedding Day
We had an early start after a restless night – cars, trucks, loud young men, & the wee train at 3.09 am
Packed the bags, did breakfast, then back to the Gasthof to change rooms.
We were going to walk up the hill but Paul was there to pick up our bags & us. We all gathered in the courtyard, got into our assigned cars and we were off to Bonstetten. Denise & I were in Paul's BMW 3 li – complete with GPS & entertainment.
The family procession of three cars arrived at Bonstetten just after 11 with two & a half hours to go. Down at the church we found Kathrin & Philippe having photos in and around the church. She looked stunning - all in cream with pearls sewn into the dress. We all went to have coffee in the local bakerie. Then the church bells began to ring and we all went across to the church. There was a pew set aside for the Coopers and us. The minister, Frau Rüegg, welcomed us all in German & French, then Kathrin & Philippe also and they mentioned us all from NZ.
There was a small choral group connected through Sarah – the event organiser – that sung a number of English Christian songs throughout. The first hymn was sung in German and French. Then it was my turn to do my reading which I did in English & German. The usual stuff was there plus a powerpoint presentation of Philippe and Kathrin's journey so far. My reading, Philippe’s poem and the theme of the presentation as well as Frau Rüegg’s address all took the theme of journeying through life. Because the civil ceremony had happened we didn’t have to wait for signing. After the ring giving I came up and offered a blessing on them both. Then after a poem by Philippe to Kathrin it was all over and a number of folk went out and formed an archway of roses not only for K & P but the rest of us too.
The church platz was set up with refreshments and lasted about an hour, which kept us all going while group photos were begun, and for the next phase, which was to get in the cars and go to Unterägerisee. In our party two of the cars went the wrong way and Philippe, Kathrin’s brother did some frantic ringing and waiting until they caught us up. What we didn’t realise was that when we got tot the hotel we all had to get on the local ferry (a very fine boat), and we were taken for a ride around the lake. As part of the celebration we were invited to take a post card and name a gift we wanted to give the couple, write it on the postcard which was preaddressed to them, tie a helium-filled balloon to it and at a particular point, we all let them go into the air. A magical moment. Then it was back to the hotel.
Hotel 4 Seminarhotel Ägerisee, Unterägeri
This was a very modern swept up affair where we each had a twin suite. The art work on the walls, curiously to me, was available for sale - just pay and walk away with it. A couple of photos of desert sand scenes looked promising, but in the end I couldn’t work out how to pack them – that and the price. We gathered outside for drinks and the rest of the group photos and the whole party together, with the fountain in the lake rising up behind us. Then it was into the banquet room.
A wonderful feast was there for us all, and after each course something would happen. Terry Cooper gave a piece of greenstone with smooth and rough sides to be held as symbol of the marriage and he asked me if I would bless it which I was able to do in Maori and English, At another pause we had a slide show of Kathrin’s life.
Her organiser, Sarah, was one of twins, and she and Inez and Kathrin had been inseparable at school til they all went on the AFS exchange programme. On more than one occasion Sarah asked me about her time with us, because they would write to her but she didn’t reply very much and they saw her change quite a lot in that year.
There was also another exchange student at the wedding, a lovely young woman, Ida von Recklinghausen, from Stuttgart, who had been at Fraser High the same time as Kathrin and they are still friends. Ida used to visit us a lot so it was great to meet her again, She is in her first year as an assistant doctor) house surgeon equivalent) at Stuttgart, after completing her studies in her home town of Berlin,
At the dinner, the Coopers and we were seated with some of Margrit’s side, her brother Walther and wife Elsbeth, and Heidi her best friend from working together and her husband Urs. This couple were also Kathrin’s god parents. We spent an enjoyable time getting to know each other, with Walther, Elsbeth and Urs having quitr a loy of English, Denise leading the charge with her German, and Mary having some also, Me? I just muddled along and had a great time.
The dish that made the best impression on me was the second course, which had two kinds of smoked fish, Forelle (trout) and Felchen, a trout-like fish but with a delicate white flesh, with horseradish sauce, and some salad. Urs is an angler who spends his spare time fishing for this second fish and was very pleased to be able to talk to me about the art and to inquire about fishing in New Zealand. We decided that New Zealand and Switzerland were very much the same, two small island nations, except that Switzerland has all its seas inside and New Zealand, all its sea outside.
At midnight Denise and I could last no longer and went off to bed, and apparently everything kept going until well after 1.30 am.
Packed the bags, did breakfast, then back to the Gasthof to change rooms.
We were going to walk up the hill but Paul was there to pick up our bags & us. We all gathered in the courtyard, got into our assigned cars and we were off to Bonstetten. Denise & I were in Paul's BMW 3 li – complete with GPS & entertainment.
The family procession of three cars arrived at Bonstetten just after 11 with two & a half hours to go. Down at the church we found Kathrin & Philippe having photos in and around the church. She looked stunning - all in cream with pearls sewn into the dress. We all went to have coffee in the local bakerie. Then the church bells began to ring and we all went across to the church. There was a pew set aside for the Coopers and us. The minister, Frau Rüegg, welcomed us all in German & French, then Kathrin & Philippe also and they mentioned us all from NZ.
There was a small choral group connected through Sarah – the event organiser – that sung a number of English Christian songs throughout. The first hymn was sung in German and French. Then it was my turn to do my reading which I did in English & German. The usual stuff was there plus a powerpoint presentation of Philippe and Kathrin's journey so far. My reading, Philippe’s poem and the theme of the presentation as well as Frau Rüegg’s address all took the theme of journeying through life. Because the civil ceremony had happened we didn’t have to wait for signing. After the ring giving I came up and offered a blessing on them both. Then after a poem by Philippe to Kathrin it was all over and a number of folk went out and formed an archway of roses not only for K & P but the rest of us too.
The church platz was set up with refreshments and lasted about an hour, which kept us all going while group photos were begun, and for the next phase, which was to get in the cars and go to Unterägerisee. In our party two of the cars went the wrong way and Philippe, Kathrin’s brother did some frantic ringing and waiting until they caught us up. What we didn’t realise was that when we got tot the hotel we all had to get on the local ferry (a very fine boat), and we were taken for a ride around the lake. As part of the celebration we were invited to take a post card and name a gift we wanted to give the couple, write it on the postcard which was preaddressed to them, tie a helium-filled balloon to it and at a particular point, we all let them go into the air. A magical moment. Then it was back to the hotel.
Hotel 4 Seminarhotel Ägerisee, Unterägeri
This was a very modern swept up affair where we each had a twin suite. The art work on the walls, curiously to me, was available for sale - just pay and walk away with it. A couple of photos of desert sand scenes looked promising, but in the end I couldn’t work out how to pack them – that and the price. We gathered outside for drinks and the rest of the group photos and the whole party together, with the fountain in the lake rising up behind us. Then it was into the banquet room.
A wonderful feast was there for us all, and after each course something would happen. Terry Cooper gave a piece of greenstone with smooth and rough sides to be held as symbol of the marriage and he asked me if I would bless it which I was able to do in Maori and English, At another pause we had a slide show of Kathrin’s life.
Her organiser, Sarah, was one of twins, and she and Inez and Kathrin had been inseparable at school til they all went on the AFS exchange programme. On more than one occasion Sarah asked me about her time with us, because they would write to her but she didn’t reply very much and they saw her change quite a lot in that year.
There was also another exchange student at the wedding, a lovely young woman, Ida von Recklinghausen, from Stuttgart, who had been at Fraser High the same time as Kathrin and they are still friends. Ida used to visit us a lot so it was great to meet her again, She is in her first year as an assistant doctor) house surgeon equivalent) at Stuttgart, after completing her studies in her home town of Berlin,
At the dinner, the Coopers and we were seated with some of Margrit’s side, her brother Walther and wife Elsbeth, and Heidi her best friend from working together and her husband Urs. This couple were also Kathrin’s god parents. We spent an enjoyable time getting to know each other, with Walther, Elsbeth and Urs having quitr a loy of English, Denise leading the charge with her German, and Mary having some also, Me? I just muddled along and had a great time.
The dish that made the best impression on me was the second course, which had two kinds of smoked fish, Forelle (trout) and Felchen, a trout-like fish but with a delicate white flesh, with horseradish sauce, and some salad. Urs is an angler who spends his spare time fishing for this second fish and was very pleased to be able to talk to me about the art and to inquire about fishing in New Zealand. We decided that New Zealand and Switzerland were very much the same, two small island nations, except that Switzerland has all its seas inside and New Zealand, all its sea outside.
At midnight Denise and I could last no longer and went off to bed, and apparently everything kept going until well after 1.30 am.
Day 11 * Stein am Rhein and Konstanz
Woke with a start, and with the little trains at 7 am.
Hotel 3 Landgasthof Schafli – Wängi
Well appointed room on the top (2nd floor) – the non-smoking one (though the paint still carries the faint odour), with a view of the Frauenfeld–Wil Highway and Railway, and if you lift your eyes a little higher, to some of the surrounding countryside. The restaurant is below us on the bottom floor and this afternoon on our return we wondered if the person who serviced our room had been smoking, til we realised the window was open and the BBQ was going for the restaurant. They use a sweet smelling wood for their charcoal as it is not at all foul.
Breakfast with the Friebes and Paul was there too. More hugs and kisses and he opened his present of a good Saints Cab Sauv from the Hawkes Bay. After heart surgery, he too has had the message that at least one lass of red wine a day si good for the continued health of the heart!. More catching up with the Coopes and then they were off to Zurich and Denise and I to Konstanz. However Margrit had slightly different ideas and she and son Philippe took us to Kreuzlingen via the Carthaus Itingen - a Carthusian Monastry that was erected on the site in 1079, then to Stein am Rhein which is back in the canton of Schaffhausen. It is a wonderful old town which has all these old buildings that have scenes from their history painted on them, some of the paintings going back centuries. Shopping and taking photos and more shopping and more photos. I couldn’t work out who was more excited Denise, or Margrit who could see Denise’s enjoyment.
Then it was off to Kreuzlingen which is the Swiss side of Konstanz, and the road wound along the side of the Rhein - photo opportunity strikes again, through Ermatingen where I preached on my stay 10 years ago. Margrit and Philippe dropped us off just near the border and left us to fend for ourselves. The trip across had had Kathrin calling three times as she checked with Margrit that things were all arranged, who after the second call laughed and said she thought she was making Kathrin & Philippe nervous that everything would be all right. She certainly seemed to be a lady in control.
Back to Germany. We walked disappointedly across the border - once more no one stopped us, asked for passports or stamped them or anything! But oh for some lunch. Hang on - we swapped all our Euro, so after counting up the small change in Denise’s purse and realising €2.60 wasn’t going to buy much lunch it was off to a bank or rather a Geldautomat. Walked through the impressive city gates and into the old part of town. Like them all, each old town has its own building style and Konstanz was lovely. The humidity was getting up to 100% and apparently a storm was brewing so we found a nice looking Italien restaurant and had salad and pizza - a different salad for each type of pizza. I thought I’d ordered one with the house speciality (Sardines) but no got that wrong – on top of my tomato slices – was…Rocket! Still, it was very tasty and we were impressed with the lightness of the bases.
Off exploring and down to the lakeside. The wide market place was filled with people and street musicians and in the subway there was our accordian player friend from Zurich. Up the ramp and on to the waterfront and there was the statue of the wonderful lady of the town with a bare-assed bishop on on hand and a king in the same attire balanced one on each hand. It commemorates a famous church council of the 12th century held in Konstanz. After looking at her we noticed a round trip ferry tour, having decided not to go over to Meersburg after the weather warnings, and had a delightful 45 min tour of the harbour and wider area.
Got back and went to the station which has a Swiss section, (no passport check there either!) to find we’d just m issed a connection to our next destination Weinfelden. Fortunately they run regularly and we got one a quarter hour later. I suddenly realised where we were, as it was the train that I regularly caught from Lengwil, next to Oberhofen and was able to show Denise where I’d spent my study leave 10 years ago. A train change at Weinfelden and we were on our way to Wil (the other end of the line from Frauenfeld) to catch the little red tram to Wängi. Had an oops moment as I thought I knew where it was situated but no it was 180º and across three platforms, so did a brisk walk to find it didn’t leave for another 10 mins.
Had a wee rest having got back at 6.25, which got a little bit extended and walking up the road to Friebe’s I could see Margrit looking anxiusly down the road for us coming. A wave and she was fine. Got there and had fondue and racklette on the porch for evening meal. A lot of fun and Margrit was amazing coping with all us Kiwis without any of the others of her family there. We went inside after the thunder storm brought some rain. It was the second night in a row to have one - most spectacular - pink flashes every couple of minutes or so. Picked up our laundry, got the instructions for the morning and came home to pack bags and stuff for the trip tomorrow. Stopped in the hotel restaurant for coffee and ice-cream for Denise and kirsch for me – wow on both accounts. The mocha/vanilla ice-cream was so smooth and creamy it was nothing like we’ve had before. Found out where we were to store our stuff while away and then retired to finish the packing.
Turned the light out and had one of the noisiest nights we’ve had - almost like a good night on Te Rapa straight with cars, bikes, loud louts and the bells from the train crossing every half hour, right into the night.
Hotel 3 Landgasthof Schafli – Wängi
Well appointed room on the top (2nd floor) – the non-smoking one (though the paint still carries the faint odour), with a view of the Frauenfeld–Wil Highway and Railway, and if you lift your eyes a little higher, to some of the surrounding countryside. The restaurant is below us on the bottom floor and this afternoon on our return we wondered if the person who serviced our room had been smoking, til we realised the window was open and the BBQ was going for the restaurant. They use a sweet smelling wood for their charcoal as it is not at all foul.
Breakfast with the Friebes and Paul was there too. More hugs and kisses and he opened his present of a good Saints Cab Sauv from the Hawkes Bay. After heart surgery, he too has had the message that at least one lass of red wine a day si good for the continued health of the heart!. More catching up with the Coopes and then they were off to Zurich and Denise and I to Konstanz. However Margrit had slightly different ideas and she and son Philippe took us to Kreuzlingen via the Carthaus Itingen - a Carthusian Monastry that was erected on the site in 1079, then to Stein am Rhein which is back in the canton of Schaffhausen. It is a wonderful old town which has all these old buildings that have scenes from their history painted on them, some of the paintings going back centuries. Shopping and taking photos and more shopping and more photos. I couldn’t work out who was more excited Denise, or Margrit who could see Denise’s enjoyment.
Then it was off to Kreuzlingen which is the Swiss side of Konstanz, and the road wound along the side of the Rhein - photo opportunity strikes again, through Ermatingen where I preached on my stay 10 years ago. Margrit and Philippe dropped us off just near the border and left us to fend for ourselves. The trip across had had Kathrin calling three times as she checked with Margrit that things were all arranged, who after the second call laughed and said she thought she was making Kathrin & Philippe nervous that everything would be all right. She certainly seemed to be a lady in control.
Back to Germany. We walked disappointedly across the border - once more no one stopped us, asked for passports or stamped them or anything! But oh for some lunch. Hang on - we swapped all our Euro, so after counting up the small change in Denise’s purse and realising €2.60 wasn’t going to buy much lunch it was off to a bank or rather a Geldautomat. Walked through the impressive city gates and into the old part of town. Like them all, each old town has its own building style and Konstanz was lovely. The humidity was getting up to 100% and apparently a storm was brewing so we found a nice looking Italien restaurant and had salad and pizza - a different salad for each type of pizza. I thought I’d ordered one with the house speciality (Sardines) but no got that wrong – on top of my tomato slices – was…Rocket! Still, it was very tasty and we were impressed with the lightness of the bases.
Off exploring and down to the lakeside. The wide market place was filled with people and street musicians and in the subway there was our accordian player friend from Zurich. Up the ramp and on to the waterfront and there was the statue of the wonderful lady of the town with a bare-assed bishop on on hand and a king in the same attire balanced one on each hand. It commemorates a famous church council of the 12th century held in Konstanz. After looking at her we noticed a round trip ferry tour, having decided not to go over to Meersburg after the weather warnings, and had a delightful 45 min tour of the harbour and wider area.
Got back and went to the station which has a Swiss section, (no passport check there either!) to find we’d just m issed a connection to our next destination Weinfelden. Fortunately they run regularly and we got one a quarter hour later. I suddenly realised where we were, as it was the train that I regularly caught from Lengwil, next to Oberhofen and was able to show Denise where I’d spent my study leave 10 years ago. A train change at Weinfelden and we were on our way to Wil (the other end of the line from Frauenfeld) to catch the little red tram to Wängi. Had an oops moment as I thought I knew where it was situated but no it was 180º and across three platforms, so did a brisk walk to find it didn’t leave for another 10 mins.
Had a wee rest having got back at 6.25, which got a little bit extended and walking up the road to Friebe’s I could see Margrit looking anxiusly down the road for us coming. A wave and she was fine. Got there and had fondue and racklette on the porch for evening meal. A lot of fun and Margrit was amazing coping with all us Kiwis without any of the others of her family there. We went inside after the thunder storm brought some rain. It was the second night in a row to have one - most spectacular - pink flashes every couple of minutes or so. Picked up our laundry, got the instructions for the morning and came home to pack bags and stuff for the trip tomorrow. Stopped in the hotel restaurant for coffee and ice-cream for Denise and kirsch for me – wow on both accounts. The mocha/vanilla ice-cream was so smooth and creamy it was nothing like we’ve had before. Found out where we were to store our stuff while away and then retired to finish the packing.
Turned the light out and had one of the noisiest nights we’ve had - almost like a good night on Te Rapa straight with cars, bikes, loud louts and the bells from the train crossing every half hour, right into the night.
Day 10 * Good bye Zurich and off to Wangi
Check out time wasn’t till midday so after another fine breakfast, Denise making another lunch from the leftover rolls, the rest of the cheese and some of the antipasto from yesterday.
A morning stroll in Zurich.
We left the hotel and turned left and this time continued up the Niederdorfstr, finding some more interesting shops and a wonderful little close that dated back to the 12th C. Carried on a bit more and came out at the Grosmunster, and Ulrich Zwingli Platz. This church was at the centre of the Protestant Reformation (as opposed to the Lutheran one) and was where Calvin and Knox came to carry the reformation to Geneva and Scotland. We went in after watching youths do their bum turned to the camera in front of an important old building trick, and were blown away. In the quiet, even though there was a teacher/guide talking with a group of high school students, I felt I was in a special place. Unlike the FM, you could take photos without a flash and the stained glass window with the early morning sun behind was stunning. I’ve got a postcard of the organ for Jan to see what could be possible at Scots – NOT! There was a side chapel set up as a meditation room and a crypt with a massive statue of Charlemagne. I could have climbed the 187 steps to the top of the south tower, but it was too early in the morning.
Back to the hunt for Die Post, and there it was right where the woman had directed me to yesterday, and so some of our postcards are on the way. We carried on and had drinks in a park. It seems funny to be naturally having a beer at 10 am outside in a park, but what with the heat (another day of over 25º) and the walking, water, or soft drinks aren’t really refreshing enough. Did some souvenir shopping and found ourselves in the Gummy Bear shop with the attendant plying us with different sorts as we sorted out our purchases. Then it was back to the hotel, for the final pack.
Lunch and trains
We settled the bill – CHF 14 for a bottle of water and Internet access – and we were off to the station, via the COOP where I bought another adapter so I could continue to keep things charged in Switzerland, yet another plug configuration!
Rather than go to the station, I had noticed a park near the station connected to the Zurich Landesmuseum, so we went in with our suitcases and bags to have lunch with the Zurich folk. Our patch of lawn was joined up with a junior school trip and we took delight in kids the world over. Every class has a clown, a daredevil, a boundary pusher – especially on a trip. Then it was the turn of the big kids. An older teenager started walking past us towards the entranceway fence getting egged on by mates further back. When he got there, someone gave a signal and he had to walk mincing-style right back to his mates. He pulled it off wonderfully with everyone joining in laughing, jeering and whistling.
Finished our lunch and went to the station to sort out tickets for next week. In a number of places the Swiss have devised a civilised way to queue. You walk in, press a button on a console and you get a ticket with a number on it. You can then chose to stand and wait or sit down, while the board and a beep would indicate it was your turn and which counter to go in. I remembered how it worked after Denise had done her stuff at the Post Shop and I relaised she must have ‘pushed in“. The Swiss obviously worked out she was a stranger and didn’t point out to her the error of not getting a ticket.
Back at the station the assistant sorted out a trip to Firenze for us. HIs first option was the direct one leaving Wängi at 6.24 in the morning, but got him to realise that that just wasn’t really doable, so he found the one we had put in our plans and pointed out it stops at Milano and has an extra booking fee CHF 50 on top of their normal fee of CHF 18. Then it was onto the train to Frauenfeld and a wait for the tram to Wängi in stifling heat. NO mistake this time and two ice coffees which we finished just as the tram arrived.
On we hopped and after a brief wait headed off to, in the words of the ticket assistant, the big city of Wängi. We arrived shortly after three and after raising the host from the kitchen, got to our room and unpacked our cases fully for the first time. Presents out and ready to take and suddenly there’s loads of room.
Dinner and Reunions
At 5.30 we walked up the hill to Friebe’s and as we got to the driveway, a voice squealed "Alistair" and there was Margrit running towards us, so excited. She had been upstairs and just happened to look out the window and saw my head go past. It was lovely to see her and have a chance to catch up with her by herself.
Soone after Philippe arrived with the Cooper family in tow. Mary and Terry are from Picton and had come with their daughter Jenny and husband Gene. Jenny had become a very close friend of Kathrin’s and K had come back in 2002 for Jenny’s wedding as bridesmaid. So we were all reuniting in one way or another, as Margrit had stayed with the Coopers on her trip to NZ with K in 1999.
Much Kiwi talk while Margrit and Philippe finished preparing the meal. Unfortunately Paul was teaching night school and wasn’t going to be back till after 10. Susanne came in after taking her soccer practice with 25 young kids from 3 to 9 years of age.
We talked about plans for tomorrow, overate– again and came back to our hotel for the might to prepare for our next adventure in the morning.
A morning stroll in Zurich.
We left the hotel and turned left and this time continued up the Niederdorfstr, finding some more interesting shops and a wonderful little close that dated back to the 12th C. Carried on a bit more and came out at the Grosmunster, and Ulrich Zwingli Platz. This church was at the centre of the Protestant Reformation (as opposed to the Lutheran one) and was where Calvin and Knox came to carry the reformation to Geneva and Scotland. We went in after watching youths do their bum turned to the camera in front of an important old building trick, and were blown away. In the quiet, even though there was a teacher/guide talking with a group of high school students, I felt I was in a special place. Unlike the FM, you could take photos without a flash and the stained glass window with the early morning sun behind was stunning. I’ve got a postcard of the organ for Jan to see what could be possible at Scots – NOT! There was a side chapel set up as a meditation room and a crypt with a massive statue of Charlemagne. I could have climbed the 187 steps to the top of the south tower, but it was too early in the morning.
Back to the hunt for Die Post, and there it was right where the woman had directed me to yesterday, and so some of our postcards are on the way. We carried on and had drinks in a park. It seems funny to be naturally having a beer at 10 am outside in a park, but what with the heat (another day of over 25º) and the walking, water, or soft drinks aren’t really refreshing enough. Did some souvenir shopping and found ourselves in the Gummy Bear shop with the attendant plying us with different sorts as we sorted out our purchases. Then it was back to the hotel, for the final pack.
Lunch and trains
We settled the bill – CHF 14 for a bottle of water and Internet access – and we were off to the station, via the COOP where I bought another adapter so I could continue to keep things charged in Switzerland, yet another plug configuration!
Rather than go to the station, I had noticed a park near the station connected to the Zurich Landesmuseum, so we went in with our suitcases and bags to have lunch with the Zurich folk. Our patch of lawn was joined up with a junior school trip and we took delight in kids the world over. Every class has a clown, a daredevil, a boundary pusher – especially on a trip. Then it was the turn of the big kids. An older teenager started walking past us towards the entranceway fence getting egged on by mates further back. When he got there, someone gave a signal and he had to walk mincing-style right back to his mates. He pulled it off wonderfully with everyone joining in laughing, jeering and whistling.
Finished our lunch and went to the station to sort out tickets for next week. In a number of places the Swiss have devised a civilised way to queue. You walk in, press a button on a console and you get a ticket with a number on it. You can then chose to stand and wait or sit down, while the board and a beep would indicate it was your turn and which counter to go in. I remembered how it worked after Denise had done her stuff at the Post Shop and I relaised she must have ‘pushed in“. The Swiss obviously worked out she was a stranger and didn’t point out to her the error of not getting a ticket.
Back at the station the assistant sorted out a trip to Firenze for us. HIs first option was the direct one leaving Wängi at 6.24 in the morning, but got him to realise that that just wasn’t really doable, so he found the one we had put in our plans and pointed out it stops at Milano and has an extra booking fee CHF 50 on top of their normal fee of CHF 18. Then it was onto the train to Frauenfeld and a wait for the tram to Wängi in stifling heat. NO mistake this time and two ice coffees which we finished just as the tram arrived.
On we hopped and after a brief wait headed off to, in the words of the ticket assistant, the big city of Wängi. We arrived shortly after three and after raising the host from the kitchen, got to our room and unpacked our cases fully for the first time. Presents out and ready to take and suddenly there’s loads of room.
Dinner and Reunions
At 5.30 we walked up the hill to Friebe’s and as we got to the driveway, a voice squealed "Alistair" and there was Margrit running towards us, so excited. She had been upstairs and just happened to look out the window and saw my head go past. It was lovely to see her and have a chance to catch up with her by herself.
Soone after Philippe arrived with the Cooper family in tow. Mary and Terry are from Picton and had come with their daughter Jenny and husband Gene. Jenny had become a very close friend of Kathrin’s and K had come back in 2002 for Jenny’s wedding as bridesmaid. So we were all reuniting in one way or another, as Margrit had stayed with the Coopers on her trip to NZ with K in 1999.
Much Kiwi talk while Margrit and Philippe finished preparing the meal. Unfortunately Paul was teaching night school and wasn’t going to be back till after 10. Susanne came in after taking her soccer practice with 25 young kids from 3 to 9 years of age.
We talked about plans for tomorrow, overate– again and came back to our hotel for the might to prepare for our next adventure in the morning.
Day 9 * The Rheinfall and Walking and the Happy Couple *
Well, that was an interesting day.
The Trip to the Rheinfall
A good continental breakfast with enough bread rolls and cheese that we could make lunch to take with us. A wander along the Niederdorfstr and headed for past the Bahnhof, to Sihlquai (zeal-kay) where our tour bus awaited. The sum total of passengers 8, (5 Indians, 1 German woman and us) but we went any way because we had to call in to Zurich Flughaven (the airport) in case there was anyone there - both ways. A very informative guide called Annette kept us up to scratch with a whole lot of what we have come to know as “factoids” - interesting but useless bits of information – mind you most of you know my brain has been overstocked with such for ages.
Going by bus gave a good view of the countryside and not having to converse with anyone allows you to take it in in a different way. After the airport where no-one got on (or off) I developed a cough which was a reaction to something - either some acacia blossom or the aftershave of the young Indian gentleman on board. I wheezed my way to the front and the driver said when we got to Schaffhausen he knew an Apotheke he could stop at for me. HIs name was Cesar, from Oporto in Portugal and had the flag and team colours hanging from the drivers side.
It is the European Cup starting next Saturday (7 Juni) here in Switzerland and Austria so the place is starting to go mad with football fever as I was to discover later.
Back on the bus, though, we got through some slow traffic to Schaffhausen where Cesar just pulled the bus up in the middle of the street so I could get some Claratyne. Had some of the coolest, freshest water in days in the pharmacy. Then down to the Rheinfall – 20 m high and 150 m wide. Here Annette gave us the good news - we could have a boat ride out to the rock and we would also have time to have a coffee after. But! BUt the bus would leave 11.35, no waiting! Then we went round the corner to buy the tickets to be met by bedlam. The queue for tickets was hardly that and when the boat came in everyone jumped to get on - no queues, just one big pile.
Meanwhile the Indians and I were queued up wondering what to do when it suddenly freed up. We got our tickets. I said, well she brought 8 here, and Denise was staying on land so she would make sure the bus didn’t go. Kasim, the older of the two groups looked at me and agreed - what would she do - her reputation would be at risk. We all hopped into the next boat and off over to the rock, another wonderful idea the Swiss have just about wrecked. There’s enough time for one group to go up while another comes down, the stairs are one person narrow in places , and at the top there’s enough space for about 8-10 people so long as you all keep moving around take one photo yourself and have someone else take one of you, and you reciprocate, then it is back down the rock. It works, but the whole experience was so stressful that I was glad Denise had made the decision to stay. Back on dry land, there was clearly n o time left for coffee, so at least an icecream and drink, but no one came to serve the queue that by then was halfway out the door. It happened and we got back to the bus which left promptly, 10 minutes late. We were 15 mins late at the airport, but no one got on (or off), and ended up 25 mins late back at Zurich. We enjoyed the whole experience asnd see it is a bit of a laugh and Cesar enjoyed me wishing his team well. I said farewell to Kasim from Bangalore and we exchanged cards with the promise to call if we pass through our respective home towns. His son is going to be studying in Melbourne next year and wants to visit NZ so could well see him at least.
Lunch and Labyrinthine tours.
Denise had discovered a labyrinth garden which we could fit in with a loopy walk to the Fraumunster, the one church I had to show Denise. We walked along Bahnhoffestr and found a little park right beside a sports goods shop. I had been looking for fencing shoes yesterday and had been given two shop names. There was the first, Ochsner Sports. We dined on breakfast supplemented by a beer, fanta, a vanilla custard pastry and fruit. Delightful, though not so when you saw dogs go by and just stop and do their business while the owners waited and didn’t pick up the mess. Ochs Sports didn’t have fencing shoes - this was their main show case shop for the football. Then further along the street to Jelmoli which didn’t look like a sports goods shop in the slightest. It wasn’t – it was a showcase for Names. Fortunately one of the names was Adidas so up to the fourth floor we went – opulence everywhere, but did the Adidas shop have what I needed – No! It was quite mind-blowing, though. Next street on our way and another Ochsners, which had a wider range of shoes on display, but no they didn’t either. Young assistants looked quite amazed at the request – shoes for fencing!?
We crossed another river and found the street we were looking for. The buildings looked very military to go with the name Militärstr, and later found out they were the police HQ. Next street up and we found the address according to the map but there was a sign up saying International Video Making Convention, and there were a lot of video-making looking types standing around – black T-shirts and jeans. Further along the street there was another entrance and we could see a garden so wandered in and found a garden done in labyrinth style - quite magic in the midst of derelict military barracks covered with graffiti.
It has been a constant presence since we arrived at Frankfurt, the graffiti and “street art” or bombing style, and not just from the trains or cars on the motorways but everywhere, even in the quiet suburban areas.
Back to the garden. It was in the centre of a tired ramshackle park, bringing a spot of colour and freshness. There was a woman tending it, but we couldn’t catch her eye to explore more, there being no signs apart from one at the entrance saying no drugs or alcohol while walking the path. I took several photos and got in the road of some rowdy black t-shirted youths kicking a ball around so we left.
Made our way through more mazy streets and started looking for coffee. Unfortunately we arrived at the Fraumunster Kirche first and I suggested we do that before the coffee – my mistake. We went and got coffee from our friendly Starbucks – iced for Denise and the usual doppio for me. Once we’d regained our equilibrium we went back over the bridge to the church and sat and started to enjoy the magnificent windows designed by Marc Chagall, when a tour group came in with a guide whose voice filled the sanctuary with her sharp tones and quite spoiled the moment. The one bit of information I gleaned was that he was over 80 when he designed the five windows of the sanctuary plus the circular one in the main body of the church. It is a companion church of the Grossmunster across the other side of the river and was originally part of a convent - hence the Frau bit. The rest of the church was impressive as well and I appreciated it more this time.
On leaving we continued our search for a place to buy stamps, but misinterpreted directions so went back to the hotel.
An evening with Kathrin and Philippe.
Rested for a while, then Denise sent me shopping for some flowers for Kathrin. Small bunches were exorbitant, so were the three peonies at CHF 8 a bloom (Just under $10), but they were spectacular. Wwe went downstairs to wait for them and got to the front just as they walked up. Hugs, kisses, looks, laughs, even a little bit crying, as we were reunited with our dear Kathrin, who is as beautiful as ever , and meeting Philippe who was handsome and charming and imho just right for our Kathrin. It turned out that we weren’t going to Bonstetten for a BBQ afterwall. First up we went up Limmatquai towards the station and got on the Polybahn, a small cable car, up to the university where we could see the vista of Zurich and have a drink.
Back down the steps and across to the Bahnhof so they could buy umbrellas for Saturday as rain is predicted. In the station there was a full blown market in swing with foods of all types. Ended up with some antipasto of capers, tomatos, olives and fetta in oil, and a cinnamony nut biscuit. When P & K found us she asked “Were we done waiting yet?” My reply was “We hadn’t seen all the stalls yet so we hadn’t even started waiting so how could we possibly be done!”
Then we went walking back into the district we had been in the afternoon, but this time to a wonderful restaurant that cooked Aargau style. The food was great and the talk was non-stop, but all too soon it was over and we began our walk back to the hotel. When we got back to the Bahnhofstr we parted company so they could go home and we took in the night lights of Zurich reflected in the River Limmat, got back to the hotel tired but very happy.
The Trip to the Rheinfall
A good continental breakfast with enough bread rolls and cheese that we could make lunch to take with us. A wander along the Niederdorfstr and headed for past the Bahnhof, to Sihlquai (zeal-kay) where our tour bus awaited. The sum total of passengers 8, (5 Indians, 1 German woman and us) but we went any way because we had to call in to Zurich Flughaven (the airport) in case there was anyone there - both ways. A very informative guide called Annette kept us up to scratch with a whole lot of what we have come to know as “factoids” - interesting but useless bits of information – mind you most of you know my brain has been overstocked with such for ages.
Going by bus gave a good view of the countryside and not having to converse with anyone allows you to take it in in a different way. After the airport where no-one got on (or off) I developed a cough which was a reaction to something - either some acacia blossom or the aftershave of the young Indian gentleman on board. I wheezed my way to the front and the driver said when we got to Schaffhausen he knew an Apotheke he could stop at for me. HIs name was Cesar, from Oporto in Portugal and had the flag and team colours hanging from the drivers side.
It is the European Cup starting next Saturday (7 Juni) here in Switzerland and Austria so the place is starting to go mad with football fever as I was to discover later.
Back on the bus, though, we got through some slow traffic to Schaffhausen where Cesar just pulled the bus up in the middle of the street so I could get some Claratyne. Had some of the coolest, freshest water in days in the pharmacy. Then down to the Rheinfall – 20 m high and 150 m wide. Here Annette gave us the good news - we could have a boat ride out to the rock and we would also have time to have a coffee after. But! BUt the bus would leave 11.35, no waiting! Then we went round the corner to buy the tickets to be met by bedlam. The queue for tickets was hardly that and when the boat came in everyone jumped to get on - no queues, just one big pile.
Meanwhile the Indians and I were queued up wondering what to do when it suddenly freed up. We got our tickets. I said, well she brought 8 here, and Denise was staying on land so she would make sure the bus didn’t go. Kasim, the older of the two groups looked at me and agreed - what would she do - her reputation would be at risk. We all hopped into the next boat and off over to the rock, another wonderful idea the Swiss have just about wrecked. There’s enough time for one group to go up while another comes down, the stairs are one person narrow in places , and at the top there’s enough space for about 8-10 people so long as you all keep moving around take one photo yourself and have someone else take one of you, and you reciprocate, then it is back down the rock. It works, but the whole experience was so stressful that I was glad Denise had made the decision to stay. Back on dry land, there was clearly n o time left for coffee, so at least an icecream and drink, but no one came to serve the queue that by then was halfway out the door. It happened and we got back to the bus which left promptly, 10 minutes late. We were 15 mins late at the airport, but no one got on (or off), and ended up 25 mins late back at Zurich. We enjoyed the whole experience asnd see it is a bit of a laugh and Cesar enjoyed me wishing his team well. I said farewell to Kasim from Bangalore and we exchanged cards with the promise to call if we pass through our respective home towns. His son is going to be studying in Melbourne next year and wants to visit NZ so could well see him at least.
Lunch and Labyrinthine tours.
Denise had discovered a labyrinth garden which we could fit in with a loopy walk to the Fraumunster, the one church I had to show Denise. We walked along Bahnhoffestr and found a little park right beside a sports goods shop. I had been looking for fencing shoes yesterday and had been given two shop names. There was the first, Ochsner Sports. We dined on breakfast supplemented by a beer, fanta, a vanilla custard pastry and fruit. Delightful, though not so when you saw dogs go by and just stop and do their business while the owners waited and didn’t pick up the mess. Ochs Sports didn’t have fencing shoes - this was their main show case shop for the football. Then further along the street to Jelmoli which didn’t look like a sports goods shop in the slightest. It wasn’t – it was a showcase for Names. Fortunately one of the names was Adidas so up to the fourth floor we went – opulence everywhere, but did the Adidas shop have what I needed – No! It was quite mind-blowing, though. Next street on our way and another Ochsners, which had a wider range of shoes on display, but no they didn’t either. Young assistants looked quite amazed at the request – shoes for fencing!?
We crossed another river and found the street we were looking for. The buildings looked very military to go with the name Militärstr, and later found out they were the police HQ. Next street up and we found the address according to the map but there was a sign up saying International Video Making Convention, and there were a lot of video-making looking types standing around – black T-shirts and jeans. Further along the street there was another entrance and we could see a garden so wandered in and found a garden done in labyrinth style - quite magic in the midst of derelict military barracks covered with graffiti.
It has been a constant presence since we arrived at Frankfurt, the graffiti and “street art” or bombing style, and not just from the trains or cars on the motorways but everywhere, even in the quiet suburban areas.
Back to the garden. It was in the centre of a tired ramshackle park, bringing a spot of colour and freshness. There was a woman tending it, but we couldn’t catch her eye to explore more, there being no signs apart from one at the entrance saying no drugs or alcohol while walking the path. I took several photos and got in the road of some rowdy black t-shirted youths kicking a ball around so we left.
Made our way through more mazy streets and started looking for coffee. Unfortunately we arrived at the Fraumunster Kirche first and I suggested we do that before the coffee – my mistake. We went and got coffee from our friendly Starbucks – iced for Denise and the usual doppio for me. Once we’d regained our equilibrium we went back over the bridge to the church and sat and started to enjoy the magnificent windows designed by Marc Chagall, when a tour group came in with a guide whose voice filled the sanctuary with her sharp tones and quite spoiled the moment. The one bit of information I gleaned was that he was over 80 when he designed the five windows of the sanctuary plus the circular one in the main body of the church. It is a companion church of the Grossmunster across the other side of the river and was originally part of a convent - hence the Frau bit. The rest of the church was impressive as well and I appreciated it more this time.
On leaving we continued our search for a place to buy stamps, but misinterpreted directions so went back to the hotel.
An evening with Kathrin and Philippe.
Rested for a while, then Denise sent me shopping for some flowers for Kathrin. Small bunches were exorbitant, so were the three peonies at CHF 8 a bloom (Just under $10), but they were spectacular. Wwe went downstairs to wait for them and got to the front just as they walked up. Hugs, kisses, looks, laughs, even a little bit crying, as we were reunited with our dear Kathrin, who is as beautiful as ever , and meeting Philippe who was handsome and charming and imho just right for our Kathrin. It turned out that we weren’t going to Bonstetten for a BBQ afterwall. First up we went up Limmatquai towards the station and got on the Polybahn, a small cable car, up to the university where we could see the vista of Zurich and have a drink.
Back down the steps and across to the Bahnhof so they could buy umbrellas for Saturday as rain is predicted. In the station there was a full blown market in swing with foods of all types. Ended up with some antipasto of capers, tomatos, olives and fetta in oil, and a cinnamony nut biscuit. When P & K found us she asked “Were we done waiting yet?” My reply was “We hadn’t seen all the stalls yet so we hadn’t even started waiting so how could we possibly be done!”
Then we went walking back into the district we had been in the afternoon, but this time to a wonderful restaurant that cooked Aargau style. The food was great and the talk was non-stop, but all too soon it was over and we began our walk back to the hotel. When we got back to the Bahnhofstr we parted company so they could go home and we took in the night lights of Zurich reflected in the River Limmat, got back to the hotel tired but very happy.
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