Thursday, May 29, 2008

Day 8 * Off to Zurich. * 27/5/08

The day started at about 7.30 for us as we both woke about the same time. Rüdi was not in the house so we began to find food for breakfast, but he arrived back with a bag of rolls. Then it was soon time to finish the packing, pack the laptop, and load the car. We drove into the city and round the Dom twice until we found a carpark building under the station. Then with Rüdi helping got the Eurail pass validated and seats allocated. Murray had carefully made it first class so the trip has been very comfortable. Back at the Bahnhof - then plan of the train was not quite how they hooked up the carriages. We thought we were on the first one behind the driver, but the train had been delayed and in hooking up the two trains, they put our car right in the middle. Thank goodness for Rüdiger, I was able to walk ahead to find the right place and he supported Denise and made sure we both got on the right carriage. Whew!

Changed at Mannheim with less hassle, except the platform showed a train at 12.37, which came and went and then ours arrived right on time and – here I am right up to date having stopped at Karlsruhe and just coming in to Baden-Baden, and the laptop power is about to go down!
Temperature outside is about 26º and very humid, so the air-conditioning is very lovely.

Hotel 2 Goldenes Schwert. (Golden sword – what could be more appropriate!)
Arrived at Zurich at 4 pm and after “advice” from a “helpful” young Swiss man with a rather large tummy, we walked down the strand beside the river to the Goldenes Schwert, a gay friendly hotel up a side alley with a niteclub and an all nite bar. It was a bit further than we had anticipated and when we reached the cobbled sector of town got a bit difficult with my bag train - the two cases joined together. We’re on the fourth floor. Its clean and well appointed and the receptionist, Stefan, is very helpful.
We’ve booked a trip to the Rheinfall tomorrow and will be away from here at 9. Had to change money and then back to the station to get some more, to find the cash machine delivered CHF when we were told we only had Euros on the Cash Card. Then it was walk back some and find some tea. Doner Kebaps and Pita wrap just down the alley from the hotel. Walked down to the Riviera and heard sounds and saw sights. A Classical accordion player, an African gospel group. Finished up at Starbucks, possibly the only smoke free coffee house in Zurich – lovely. Just don’t think that I’m going to do McDonalds and Burger King or Subway too!

On our way in got accosted by an earnest young man giving out leaflets attached to a male voice chorus singing earnest hymn type songs, all trying to save us poor sinners. Please - why on our street corner?
Arrived home to sort ourselves out for the morning. Thought about laundry till we saw the hotel charges – exorbitant – so we’ll probably find a laundromat somewhere.

Just had a ring from Kathrin and we’re off to their place tomorrow night for a BBQ.
Final impressions - noise and bustle, bells and people, laughter and clanging of pots and dishes and coffee cups fill the air in this neck of the woods.
It’s going to be a hot nite.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Day 7 * Touring the countryside * 26/5/08

Mid morning and we were off again. Around to Stephan and Yvonn’s flat to join up with them, and off into the country.

First stop was Altenberg which is a former Cistercian Monastry site. It is equally as impressive as the Köln Dom. It has the largest Gothic stained glass window north of Italy. Rüdiger admitted that he had been reading up about everything he would be taking us to, and Denise noticed that Kirsten did also. I was most impressed by that. He remembered at that point that the great bell in the Köln Cathedral was the largest swining in the world.
The setting of the monastry was in the bottom of a wooded valley and very attractive, even though it was raining. I found a cross with a labyrinth made of brass which I bought in the souvenir shop. It had all sorts of wonderful things for sale - or was it just the setting, and religious tourist souvenirs are just the same as secular.

After exploring the church competely we headed off north to the Schloss Berg. This was a castle that Rüdi used to visit as a child. We had a lot of fun trying to find an open café, but finally halfway down the hill there was a Waffle restaurant where we were finally allowed to pay for lunch. When Denise offered for us to pay for something later, Rüdi muttered that we had paid too much already. It makes the visit special.
Up to the Burg itself and exporing the rooms - many wall paintings from different centuries, though a good number were late 19th cent romantic creations. In the chapel the centrepiece was a statue of Gabriel killing a demon - a well shaped female angel in full armour! There’s a sense of a museum is a museum, but having R there made it a bit more connected. A highlight was the climb to the top of the defensive central tower, giving a wide view of the surrounding countryside. Another was the Apotheke, which showed the development of laboratories and the chemicals and herbs, potions and equipment.
Finally we headed home, briefly, then went around to Stephan’s place. A small ground level one bedroom flat which Yvonn felt a bit apologetic about, but we shared our Helston Rd house story as our first place with a child, We also saw Stephan’s trophy cabinet, and found that his best national placing was 2nd in the German Nationals, but he had done as well in European wide competitions also. Yvonn is also a trampoliner but now trains and coaches younger ones.

Out for dinner at a brewery. I had Grillaxe with Cabbage Salad. Basically it was a pork foreleg from elbow to shoulder with potato slices. See the photo. I couldn’t finish it. Meanwhile the barmaid would see how empty your glass was and replace it without asking with a full one – the beer tab was kept on a place mat. Denise’s Chicken & Mushroom salad was equally large and she made a good fist of it too.

Then all to soon it was all over and after walking up the street we were saying goodbye to Stephan, Yvonn and Tom. They are keen to come out to New Zealand – both of them, so as Stephan observed that made it much simpler for him.
Then a quiet walk home. I talked with Kirsten. They have been together 32 years. Home at last and farewells with Kirsten who would be up and gone before we rose. Pack the bags – get some more of this written and try to catch up as much as possible.

Day 6 * Köln * 25/5/08

We had a lovely sleep in, though Denise had a too heavy duvet on and was dripping with perspiration. A good bread, cheese and fleische breakfast with red orange juice and coffee. I really enjoy these breakfasts. They seem to set me up for the day.
Köln
Off we went to Köln to see the sights. Bought some camera batteries while the others were recharging. Then the Cathedral. Words really fail, and, I think, so do pictures. The effect is to pull your vision heavenward - both outside and inside. Your eyes are constantly being lifted up as you look at the windows, the sculptured columns, the architecture. Mass (Heilige Messe) had just finished but there were people taking photos and wandering around. There was a sense of the surreal, and while one might have felt they were being intrusive, you then realise you are there as part of the spectator crowd also. The side chapels with their votive candles were a little more private.
Walking through the old part of the town we found buildings with dates as early as the 1200’s, and saw the beginnnings of the renovations of the Roman centre of Köln.

Lunch was at the Museum of Applied Art. We didn’t tour through it but I found a series of stained glass windows which had religious themes. That was a precursor to our visit to Kolumba. This is church that had been destroyed by the bombings in the war and on the site they have erected a modern building which has been recently opened as a Museum of Christian Art - ancient and modern. The building is spectacular as were the exhibits. In all the places visited so far there have been no restrictions to taking photos apart from the use of the flash.
One of the most spectacular parts of the whole was in the church area itself where they had uncovered ruins in the ground that the church had been built on right back to Roman times (2-300 AD). There was also a chapel which had its modern windows lit from behind giving the whole area an interesting lighting effect.
We visited the chapel named as St Mary in the Ruins. I lit a candle in the side chapel. After a bit more wandering we went back home.

After a bit of a rest, Stephan, Yvonn and Tom came around. He has grown so tall, even taller than Rüdiger, and matured very much. Standing between him and Rüdi made me feel like a dwarf. We gave our presents and enjoyed the afternoon. Dinner was a Racklette(?), a kind of table top grill on which you fried meat on top and melted cheese underneath. Amazing piece of cookware which we enjoyed very much. Then Yvonn and Tom left and I showed a selection of our photos. I thought I was getting boring but Stephan couldn’t get enough. By that time it was getting dark and the four of us (Kirsten had to prepare for school) went in to Köln to see the night landscape with the towers and churches all lit up. That was amazing.
Then (always ‘then’ and ‘next’) home for a sleep and another adventure.

Day 5 * Bingen to Köln * 24/5/08

Tearful goodbyes and photos and then into the car to Bingen to catch the ferry. Got there with time to spare only to find that I needed to have validated our Eurrail pass. Nevermind - it was only €53.80 so we haven’t eaten into funds too much. We just have an extra days travel to look for. More tearful hugs and then it was on to the boat.
The Rhine Trip
The trip down the Rhine was quite spectacular. The boat was crowded with Japanese when we got on and they had takem all the sun deck seating. We found ourselves a table to stand at next to some French Harley riders, and when they disembarked claimed their chairs. By this time we’d engaged in conversation with an Aussie couple from Perth, Louis and Shirl, and a German guy Gerhardt Ott. The stop before the Loreley saw a whole pile of Indians get on and sudden;y the boat was chocker with everyone wanting to get photos of the rock. I’m not sure what I expected, but the rock outcrop was surely impressive.
Gerhardt had quietly been offering snatches of conversation and trying to help us get seats from the Japanese. After the next stop when all the tourists got off the five of us joined at one table and a pleasant cruise ensued.
Gerhardt is a doctor who later in life turned to what he felt was his calling which was to help the poor in the third world. He has set up a corporation to do this in a not for profit way and travels to Africa, India, Nepal and Bali. We talked about many things along the way, about how one can feel like a foreigner in ones own country, the changing nature of Western society. He only happened to be on the boat because it was his birthday and on that day you can travel for free, so if he is in the country he does the Rhine trip through to Köln. A very gracious man who I’m pleased to have met.
Koblenz
Then it was time to leave at Koblenz. Off with everything and then get sorted. Stamps, film, postcards, toilet. Denise went and then I went looking but before I could find them I saw two people walking, the woman, blonde and with a distinctive walk so I called out "Kirsten!" and it was them. Back to Denise, put the luggage in the car and then off to see the old town, have some lunch and then walk some more - to the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle.
Street musicians abounded and lots of people. Saw three slabs of the Berlin Wall and found that Kirsten was a girl in Berlin when the wall went up overnight and she was frightened that her father who worked daily in the East wouldn’t be allowed back in to the west. The family moved to near Köln soon after that, and her mother still lives in the town they moved to.
Then we went up to the great fortress overlooking Koblenz, Der Ehrenbreitstein, which had been on the site for 1,000 years pretty much. We discovered there was a historical festival going on and K & R thought it too expensive, so we totted up and decided it wasn’t – as it turned out it was even cheaper because senior citizens got in at reduced rates and they thought I had to be over 60 – huh! but who’s arguing. Inside there were people dressed up in all kinds of costumes - military, medieval, and even older - Tartars, Huns, and Goths – but there were also the Goths of today’s era walking around in their black clothes and capes too. Stalls and demonstrations of old-time crafts and activities – axe throwing & archery for the kids; sword-fighting, cannon firing, plus all the new age versions of Celtic, Tibetan and any other kind of mysticism, plus the pot fumes. Catriona and Paul would have been in their element!
Then it was home on the Autobahn to Köln. We had such a lovely welcome and enjoyed our first hours with Rüdiger and Kirsten.

Day 4 * Shopping and Bingen * 23/5/08

Early start to the day. Breakfast and dishes then off to town for a walk. Enjoying very much the delight on Denise's face and in her voice as we walk and see and shop. Essentials like hair spray, sandals and shorts (for her), non essentials like strawberries (Erdbeeren) and ice creams (Kirsch and Mandarine). Walked up the hill and arrived just on midday – lunch will be 1.30.
Taking photos: A van stopped for me so I could take a scenic one -– also trying to take photos of the people and finding them ducking out of the way if they became aware of the camera pointing at them. The perpetual forehead furrows amazed us both and the lack of smiles. It seems people are quite earnest. We tried doing the kiwi pass on a smile thing to people but there was not a lot of immediate response.
Then off to Bingen - well lunch was actually at 2.30, then we talked and had a rest, D did the dishes, then had coffee & cake and then just after four we left. We got there at 4.45 and paid only €5 each instead of €14 but we had to wait 15 mins to get in. Time to take pictures of the Rhine.
The garden show stretched for 1-2 kilometers along the riverbank, with all sorts of interesting displays. Meanwhile Tobias had gone to the skatepark - he rides longboard. Long walks and long talks with MM.

Returned by 7.45 and MM went to her Handbell group while Claus and I looked at photos and talked, . On her return we had smorgasbord again. Then while C & I talked and looked at more photos and showed him "Jesus on the Internet" MM gave Denise a reiki “massage”. Another late night.

Day 3 * Birthdays and a Sightseeing trip.* 23/5/08

I woke very early - about 5 with the birds beginning to sing for dawn and needed the loo. Wine at midnight is nearly always fatal in that way. Then back to sleep for a time until D woke me because I was snoring - then finally woke at 8.30. MM & C clearly up so we showered and got dressed and at about 9.15 had them arrive home after a walk with Bart the dog. So – late breakfast, fixed the lamp cord D broke last night and then dressed for a birthday party being held in the church complex. Delightful lady, Ulrike, having her 50th. Food, company and items from five children each of which had a different sets of allergie/conditions.
Then had a tour of the church with MM - amazing layout. Mind you, C said they have 8,000 members and two churches in the parish. See photos.
Time for another rest. Denise reeling a bit & now snoring just a little so time to stop for today (3.40 pm)

Then it was on the road with Claus to the Rotenfels (Red Rocks). We drove in a wide loop to get there which was just behind Bad Kreuznach. Stunning views from the top, of the town below, the caste Edernburg - which was gifted to the EvangelickeKirche in the early 1900’s. It had been there since the 1200’s. The rock faces were incredible, some vertical. A platform at the highest point included bars from which people would abseil down. Then down to see a sculpture park belonging to a now deceased sculptor whose specialty was large marble books. We finished up at the castle and had a look around. I had a fascinating chat with two young boys about the castle ghost that lived down the well. They didn’t realise I couldn’t speak German and continued the conversation as if nothing was the matter.

Then back home and Claus retranslated the passages for the wedding. Interesting what it gave rise to. Must think again about my continued use of Inscape. Late tea – again. Showed MM some of the photos on the laptop, then bed. Tried ringing Kieran but he didn’t hear the home phone (long shower?).

Day 2 * Off to Bad Kreuznach *22/5/08

Wünderbar! Vodka soaked lime sorbet meant that I slept through til 6 & woke refreshed and ready. Breakfast in the hotel was great - starting my diet of cheese and meat and bread and muesli for breakfast. Planned our movements and went for another walk in Frankfurt. That was interesting. Walking through the park with skyscrapers around yet still having the feeling of openness. Then back to the hotel, picked up the bags, paid the bill for the water drank overnight €3.30 for the bottle - and had paid €4 for an hours wireless Internet connection.
Walk to the station was easy, finding the subway which allowed us to get through without going across tram tracks and roads. Then buying the ticket seemed to take forever. I had thought there were vending machines which there were but BK was not on the menu so went to the ticket office where the queue seemed to take forever. Got tickets to be told the train was going in 5 mins - we’d left our walk a bit late. Got to platform 20 just in time, clambered onto the train and found seats with all our luggage just as the train left the station. Then the guard came by after the Flughaven station and informed us we were in the wrong class (1st) for our tickets. Fortunately most had got off at the airport stop so there were plenty of seat in the second class section. An hour later we were approaching BK so I started to take the cases through to the exit. Stepping through the doors in the next section and a young woman said “You’re from New Zealand?” while pointing at my koropepe. So we talked a little then she started to tell her companions how she’d been in NZ in Feb/March fruit-picking.
Then Bad Kreuznach and there was Claus at the station to greet us with the parish van for our luggage. Up to Lessingstraße and welcome from Mari Margaret. And so the talk began. She hasn’t really changed, just as bubbly, intense and wanting to know everything at once as ever. Claus stayed a while then went back to parish duties till lunch time.
After lunch and a rest we went bee-keeping up in the woods where MM has 4 hives. Both of us had turns helping and we brought back 21 frames of honey for extraction. Another rest, then at 4.30 had high tea on the balcony - baked cheesecake and tea. Then it was table tennis time and I acquitted myself ok, and Denise had a go right handed against MM playing left handed. They are both good and both competitve. We came in after nine and started to do the honey. Bumble hands me in putting the centrifuge back together didn’t get it properly lined up and the spindle casing bent out of alignment so it wouldn’t turn freely. Once we saw the problem we fixed it and went up for supper - a smorgasbord. Then it was time for bed – midnight. Our systems were reeling quite a bit with change of time zone and change of diet.
And all the time talk, constant and good talk, feeling like we are catching up after just a few months or years instead of 10 in mine or 25 in Denise’s.

Getting There

Day One

A long long day.
We began easily enough. Good sleep and waking about six, ready to go. Breakfast, saying good bye to Kieran, (not Neo!!!) then the last checks and off in the car. Good drive up to Hunua to pick up Paul who took the car home - Shuttle was $70 per person one way – so this was a no-brainer.

Airport 1 Auckland. No fuss, just quietly did our thing and their things and made our way through to boarding to find our flight was delayed - food vouchers helped. Duty Free shopping always seems to tempt you into over-indulging, but still, some perfume and a couple of bottles of scotch and we’re both happy.
Delayed boarding, then we seemed to sit for quite a while once we got into the plane, then we were off.
After three hours, when we should’ve been over New Caledonia, Denise pointed out a brown land mass. The hostess told us we were going up via Brisbane and Cairns. The sunset was quite spectacular lighting up the landscape, outlining river beds and hills.
Films, games, sleep, food - good quality. Getting Denise comfortable.
Landing at Hong Kong at 10.30 pm local time 23° and raining, but terminal nicely air-conditioned so you only realised the humidity going through the air bridge.

Airport 2 Hong Kong. At 10.30 at night not a lot was open and we had less time than we realised. Denise a bit stressed & out of drug sync!! Had a plate-full of Kimchi - Korean cold chilli cabbage. Which was just as well because things didn’t go according to plan. Checked back in and boarded promptly without too much hassle. Then a delay once the doors were shut as they needed some extra paperwork done !?? Out on the runway and first in the queue for takeoff when– “This is your captain speaking, while taxiing out something showed up as faulty which requires a visual inspection so we’re back to the terminal for that.” Back we went, had the visual then joined the queue at the back. Once we were in the air we were informed that the original flight path went over the earthquake zone in Szechwan province and China didn’t want commercial traffic in the area. So we were re-routed up to Beijing and then across Mongolia and Russia. I went to sleep which left Denise seeing the landscapes and cities by night including a spectacular view of Beijing. I caught some of the sights later. Then, more sleep, bridge and movies, until we began flying over the Baltic (saw the coast of Latvia and Lithuania) and Scandinavia (Sweden and Denmark). Wind farms and canola (rape) fields. Then across the top of the Netherlands and up the North Sea to fly up the Thames Estuary and came in at Heathrow after a 13 hour flight instead of the 11 hr 40 min expected.

Airport 3 Heathrow. Arrived Terminal 3 with just under 2 hours to boarding, so the first thing was to get to Terminal 5. Both of us were tired and having looked at the stuff on the Internet I knew what we had to do, but had forgotten to transmit that knowledge or the fact I had it to Denise. So I just wanted to get on with it and follow the “clear” signs and she wanted to check whether we were going in the right direction. Down to the Transit station and walked out into the chilly London air in our lightweight travelling gears - all the temperatures had been in the 20’s according to WeatherDock predictions via weather.com, but the overnight temperatures are much cooler. In a very efficient way we got to the infamous Terminal 5 to find a modern clean building which functioned very well - clear signs, and not too far to walk. Went through their bag search - and had to take our shoes off. For the first time the metal buttons on my shirt didn’t trigger the sensors, but my bottle of aftershave made sure my bag got searched - everything out. What I didn’t realise was I didn’t put my NZ/Europe adapter didn’t get back into my bag. First things first though, toilet stop and shave, only to find the razor didn’t work. An electrical goods store next to the loos weren’t at all helpful. I asked if I could check whether it was the razor, but I’d have to buy a NZ/Brit adapter then find a socket somewhere else - as if! Denise found Boots and got some cold sore cream, then we wandered a bit and found a second set of toilets where – success the razor worked and my face felt happy. Then it was queue up time again. We arrived at the check-in counter just as they called the flight to board so it was all very simple, Until 10.40 came and went, then a group of young people clambered in, and Denise noticed long metal cases being loaded into the cargo hold from a security van. She thought they were musical instruments, but they looked like the size of case that the movies have sniper rifles in. Then the captain spoke saying they had some paperwork they had to do extra and some unspecified loading that had to happen. At one stage there were seven guys loading these cases on. We left nearly 40 mins late. British Airways provide a drink and nuts or muesli bars, and had a hostess who couldn’t work out what we were saying. Nice German woman next to us thought it all a bit odd as she could understand us okay.

Airport 4 Frankfurt. Also arrived here at Terminal 3. Disembarked on the ground and taken by bus to passport control. Not a friendly face in sight as welcome or help. Border booths and surrounds austere and not particularly efficient in organising people. Still, got to pick up the bags through customs - declaring our medication and wines and not even having our bags opened by the friendlier customs men, then got some Euros (the Germans call them “oyros”) Then food. Found a bistro near the bag pick-up area and started lunch. Over half way through we heard a notice about an unclaimed black hand bag somewhere come over. Next moment the police arrived and moved us all out of the area. I finished my Danish pastry and we went to get the train to Frankfurt. Shuttle bus to Station terminal - do we go up or down. From the little I had gleaned we wanted a long distance train, I thought, so up we went and found a ticket booth. No, we wanted the subway. The intercity connections were €12 and the subway €3.60. He was right we did want the subway so off we went, down the escalators to the platform, bought ticket through the machine. Engaged a lovely German woman who helped and reflected on how unwelcoming she felt her reception was by her own people. Got to Frankfurt am Main Hauptbahnhoft to emerge into the streets of Frankfurt with our bags reasonably intact, very tired and wondering how we would cope for the next wee while.

Hotel 1 Hotel Domicil – Best Western. Asked directions and found Karlstraße easily and the Hotel Domicil down the street. Tidy, nice and the room, though small was comfy. First job, just to have a rest, then start to unpack and rearrange, then shower and tea. During the unpacking I discovered the missing plug adapter. Denise remembered a DutyFree shop on our way here so I went back to it to see if they had one, but unfortunately no - not our NZ/Eur type, so I started walking and found myself in the sex-shop part of the city - just around the corner from our hotel too! Got accosted by one or two hawkers who were trying to inveigle customers inside their joints. Round the corner I found a store run by some Pakistanis which had just what I wanted. Then back to the hotel. Told Dania Ruggerio, the receptionist, where I’d been and she pointed me to some savoury dining places. We found Der Alte Oper 10 mins down the road and a plaza with restaurants and Denise chose one - Kubu. Very nice dining, then a walk back to the hotel and thanks to a wonderful lime sorbet with vodka (lots) it was lights out and time to go to sleep. The walk included a number of sculptures in front of buildings (banks mainly) and a in a park. Frankfurt has made an impression on both of us.