Leg 1 – Getting out of Rome!
We began the day with showers then packed and toddled off to breakfast. Wonderful Italian buffet. Then did a wee tiki tour of the camp on our way back to finish the packing and various bits. Then it was form the baggage train and off over gently cobbled paths to wait for the 10.30 shuttle. There were five of us piled on and soon on our way, but it seemed to be getting closer to the city rather than from it. Our driver suddenly pulled into this piazza hopped out and walked off (leaving the engine running) without a word. It kind of left us all feeling a bit gob-smacked and wondering whether we should’ve caught the 6.45 shuttle after all. Then we saw him crossing the piazza with a little guy in green doorman’s get up who picked up some bags and then they arrived with two other passengers tagging along. Next problem – getting out of the city. Our guy seemed to know what he was doing but the minutes to check in were getting eaten up. As we idled past a motor accident the guy next to me (one of the two) murmured that we were right now and it was only another 20 mins.
As soon as we arrived we flew into action trying to find the Cathay Pacific flight and arrived to find the ticketers were just closing off the flight. She gave us very helpful directions and we charged around the corner to find – not a queue, but a pile-up! Everyone was trying to get through 2 or 3 machines. I watched a guy ahead of us successfully get through and motioned to the rather tall blonde airport security lady that we were in the same boat. Through the xray check & I had asked about taking my laptop out but they waved it through only to have the second line of defence swing into action and want to check my bag! In the end he waved me through and we were off onto the connection shuttle to find we still had a bit of time left to shop for an iPod - Yes! – and some chocolates –Not!! I was still nauseous after the careering ride through Rome and had looked where I’d been told and found a queue of about 20 people and just had to get out of the shop. Denise found me in quite a distressed state which even her “pull-yourself-together-party” tricks didn’t help assuage! We climbed on board and she hit me with one of her ginger travellers pills which helped considerably.
Leg 2 – The flight
What can I say - movies, food, sleep. The Butterfly Effect is one weird movie! We landed safely at Hong Kong, got a bit to eat then set about our day of adventure.
Leg 3 – Hong Kong.
Smooth landing and no panic needed, even though we were behind schedule. We had a bit of a clean up then went through passport control and really started to take in the Hong Kong terminal. We had been directed to a day tour run by Vigor Tours (http://www.orientaltravel.com/tours/Hong_Kong/transit-tour.htm) so we found the desk and booked the Tour. Then it was breakfast and store our main cabin bag. and check out the shops for purchases later. Our plan – to be back by about 5 pm.
We joined the group, eight of us 2 French girls, 2 Indian, 1 South African, 1 Englishman and us, with this little old Chinese guy called Bob, and off we went. He showed us where we would get off our Airport Express Train, then we walked to our Tour Shuttle and off we went. Bob was a mine of information. “This is the biggest, the tallest, the longest… in the world.”
Three stops - The Lantau Link Viewing Platform, the Central District waterfront including the Avenue of Stars, getting on the Star Ferry, and after getting back on the bus we went up to the Hollywood Road & Man Mo Temple.
The Lantau Link was interesting, not so much for the view of the longest suspension bridge in the world but for the noise of the Hong Kong insect life. Think of the loudest hillside of cicadas and times it by 10 and you’re at the approximate noise level. Also, seeing the butterflies from Thames Butterfly House flying about in real life.
The Avenue of Stars was on the waterfront and had statues of Bruce Lee that everyone posed before, and hand prints of all the Chinese movie stars which everyone wanted to put their hands onto, right through to statues of the latest Anime ( a cartoon form) characters.
Finally, the Man Lo temple – a Taoist temple was fascinating. We asked Bob if we could take photos and he replied “Of course.” I was still a bit hesitant, being respectful and all that, until I got up to the main part of the sanctuary which would usually be the most sacred part, to be met by a sign “Souvenirs, Buy Here→” The goldwork was sublime and the incense was thick, with what we dubbed the Largest insect coils in the world, in honour of Bob. Outside was a furnace going full bore with a guy raking the ashes over and adding more stuff. This was the burning of money, paper cars, paper this, paper that, as an offering of what you had to the gods.
Then it was back down the hill to the Station. Bob left us there and we all went our separate ways. I had seen on one of the tour guides the Kowloon Walled City Garden, and so having asked Bob about it we left the Station to return to the other side by the Ferry. Mistake No.1 - we picked the wrong ferry and ended up at the other end of Kowloon City. It was a pleasant setting with people fishing and a restaurant, so we stopped and had a meal - Denise did Dim Sums and I did a noodle soup. We then asked how we might get from there to the gardens and got told to look out for a No. 6 minibus, but there didn’t seem to be one and got directed to a No 7 double-decker bus. The driver said he went there, so off we went. We made it up the hill to Boundary Road - the old boundary between Hong Kong/Kowloon and China – but a long way from where we wanted to go, then the bus turned back down the hill and finally came to a stop where he told us to walk to the end of the street and turn right and the gardens were there. We got off and did as directed and sure enough there they were. We began to explore and also realised we were cutting into our time schedule more than intended so our stroll was a little more forced. The gardens were quite stunning, even so.
Mistake No 2 - we didn’t check with Bob whether our map was current. It kind of was, except that most of the English names were no longer on the sings – all were Chinese names in Roman Script. We got to where we thought we were and from the map we thought we were only two or three blocks from the Star Ferry terminal. I think Denise agreed with me there, and on the direction we thought we should head. The further we went the more we realised that was wrong too, except we had gone down hill and there was no way we were going to go back up. So we started asking for help. As at Kowloon wharf, when we asked about taxis we got told again “No, no taxi, too expensive. Take a No. 5 bus. All No.5 go to Star Ferry.” We got to the bus stop just as a No 5 departed, and saw the stand for 5C. We/I asked whether a 5C went to Star Ferry and Yes it did. So after a couple of more buses along came not a 5 but a 5C, so we climbed aboard and sure enough the terminus for it was the Star Ferry terminal. We think now that the No 5 is the direct route and the 5C is the one that goes through the main streets of the city on the way. It was fascinating once we realised that was what was happening and took in the sights of the streets, and the sounds and looks of our fellow passengers. Finally we got to the wharf relieved and more than a little bit tired, and bought(!) our ferry tickets.
Earlier in the morning Denise and I had not been charged for our crossing but had passed through the free passage, with our tour guide, Bob, being with our grey and white hair, clearly senior citizens. I was conscious most of the day of getting very respectable, polite stares. I think the combination of such a young!! face and such white hair made for some puzzlement.
We got on the right ferry and back over the other side were able to safely negotiate our way to the Airport Express Train and were whisked back to the airport in 24 minutes.
The humidity and heat of the day, and probably a bit of jet lag, meant we were not overly hungry, but knew we needed to eat something. Contrary to my stated policy, the only thing that looked or felt palatable was a BK fish burger meal, for both of us.
Then we picked up the bag, repacked stuff and went back through passport control, handing back the 90 day visitor permits we were granted 12 hours earlier. We explored the duty free shopping precinct with sagging jaws at the amount one could spend. Having window shopped enough, we headed off to our Gate to be met with – you guessed it – flight delayed because the plane had not yet arrived. While sitting around I noticed I had what looked like an allergic reaction on my ankle, except it was on both legs. Took some Claratyne and rubbed Bepanthen in but they didn’t seem to have any effect and realised if they stayed or got worse would need to get them checked. We eventually boarded and off we flew.
Leg 3 - The flight #2
I read The Times and did their Sudokus then it was sleep time. I must have slept reasonably soundly but suddenly I felt wide awake. Checking the time on the screen I found it was just before 8 am NZ time and just another four hours to go. With the whole plane in darkness it was easy for the hostesses to spot those who were awake and found that they very helpfully provided snacks, peanuts, pretzels, sandwiches and icecreams, and drinks for those who were awake. Then we were in descent mode and landed at 12.50, only an hour late.
Clearance through customs was a breeze. The sniffer beagle responded to Denise’s bag but when she said it was medication that was fine, the handler said that he wasn’t after that sort of stuff. Through the Biosecurity X-Ray machine and out into the concourse to be met by Adrienne. We were back!
Leg 4 - The drive home.
After soup at Adrienne's and a quick chat we were on our way home, but only got as far as Mercer before I needed a wee sleep so we pulled over and I did just that. It was enough and the rest of the trip was a breeze, even though I was wearing my Italian racing driver cap!
Good to be home. Now it’s time to bore Kieran night after night with tales of travel and catch up with his goings on.
PS. All the photos are there, I had been trying to open those I’d deleted!
PPS. Checked the legs out with the doctor and he’s happy with them with the usual warning - If they swell come back immediately.
PPPS. Got the teeth repaired as well, so 'm back to full fighting fitness!
Now how to get photos from the computer sorted and named and into the blog or Flickr or both. That’ll keep me busy at work for months!
All in all a wonderful trip, a marvellous experience, and very happy to be back home!
Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Day 18 * On our way home via Rome * 6/6/08
Well it was a good sleep. I didn’t wake til just before 7.30 and we started the final packing from Katy’s place. A simple toast and coffee breakfast, and tidying then it was goodbye to Sofia and into Mr Tiripelli’s car. Again it decided not to start and Katy gt Grant to come back to drive us into town. All the while Sofia was standing on the step with this look of “I thought you guys said goodbye and were going.” We transferred our luggage while Grant and Katy wondered what to do with Mr T’s car, as Grant had managed to get it started.
Final goodbyes to Katy and it was off to Figline station via Camping Village Girasole where Grant is based, then "ciao ciao" to Grant. We had a coffee and bought some filled rolls to have on the train and waited for our connection, which was 10–15 mins late. We left just before noon.
The trip down to Rome was interesting, first going through Tuscany and past a number of villages with old castles. Interesting to see also the changing building styles and the harvesting practices – fields of wheat with patches cut down and harvested while the rest of the field was still growing.
At one stop the carbinieri wandered through looking at faces but no one in first class matched who they might have been after. We took a list of the towns we went through to try and match some of the photos we took along the way.
Our carriage was supposed to be air-conditioned, but for that to work the doors and windows were supposed to be closed. Did that happen? Not on your nelly! At least 6 windows were open most of the time – especially during the tunnels, where everyone’s eardrums got pulverised, and then some when a train happened to be going past the other way.
We got into Rome about three and started looking for Katy’s instructions to get to Camping Village Roma, part of the chain that Grant is working for. We had to take the Metro which meant a couple of flights of escalators and me with my baggage train again making the locals laugh - especially some pretty young teenage ones!. Got our Metro ticket and then realised I couldn’t fit through the turnstile til they pointed out the wheelchair access way. I managed to leave my ticket in the machine which caused Denise to call me back, otherwise I wouldn’t have had a chance if the inspectors had caught me. Down some more escalators and onto the Metro - then seven stops later we were at Il Cipro station. I took the elevator up which totally disoriented me as I couldn’t see the bus stop at first. we re-read the instructions –carefully – looked up to the left and there were the buses including one which looked like the shuttle. Asked a young man by the door Camp Roma, and there it was. On with the luggage and us and off to the camping ground.
They were expecting us and apart from not taking proper care in reading the camp map we found our serviceable little bungalow – 2 beds & a bunk, toilet and shower in a separate bathroom. Reading the brochures, seeing Italy through these camping grounds (plusted.com) would be a very convenient cheap & comfortable holiday. I was able to hire towels, shop at the camp supermarket - better stocked than some of our corner dairies, then Denise and I went to the camp restaurant Sunset Hills for a superb final dinner in Italy – antipasto, fettucine and fish for me, antipasto, canneloni and veal for Denise, followed by fruit salad and coffee and a grappe to salute the trip for me.
A next to final pack and its lights out.
Wonderful thanks to Grant and Katy for their hospitality in Ponte Agli Stolli and their extended help to us in Rome. It just helped finish the trip off nicely!
Final goodbyes to Katy and it was off to Figline station via Camping Village Girasole where Grant is based, then "ciao ciao" to Grant. We had a coffee and bought some filled rolls to have on the train and waited for our connection, which was 10–15 mins late. We left just before noon.
The trip down to Rome was interesting, first going through Tuscany and past a number of villages with old castles. Interesting to see also the changing building styles and the harvesting practices – fields of wheat with patches cut down and harvested while the rest of the field was still growing.
At one stop the carbinieri wandered through looking at faces but no one in first class matched who they might have been after. We took a list of the towns we went through to try and match some of the photos we took along the way.
Our carriage was supposed to be air-conditioned, but for that to work the doors and windows were supposed to be closed. Did that happen? Not on your nelly! At least 6 windows were open most of the time – especially during the tunnels, where everyone’s eardrums got pulverised, and then some when a train happened to be going past the other way.
We got into Rome about three and started looking for Katy’s instructions to get to Camping Village Roma, part of the chain that Grant is working for. We had to take the Metro which meant a couple of flights of escalators and me with my baggage train again making the locals laugh - especially some pretty young teenage ones!. Got our Metro ticket and then realised I couldn’t fit through the turnstile til they pointed out the wheelchair access way. I managed to leave my ticket in the machine which caused Denise to call me back, otherwise I wouldn’t have had a chance if the inspectors had caught me. Down some more escalators and onto the Metro - then seven stops later we were at Il Cipro station. I took the elevator up which totally disoriented me as I couldn’t see the bus stop at first. we re-read the instructions –carefully – looked up to the left and there were the buses including one which looked like the shuttle. Asked a young man by the door Camp Roma, and there it was. On with the luggage and us and off to the camping ground.
They were expecting us and apart from not taking proper care in reading the camp map we found our serviceable little bungalow – 2 beds & a bunk, toilet and shower in a separate bathroom. Reading the brochures, seeing Italy through these camping grounds (plusted.com) would be a very convenient cheap & comfortable holiday. I was able to hire towels, shop at the camp supermarket - better stocked than some of our corner dairies, then Denise and I went to the camp restaurant Sunset Hills for a superb final dinner in Italy – antipasto, fettucine and fish for me, antipasto, canneloni and veal for Denise, followed by fruit salad and coffee and a grappe to salute the trip for me.
A next to final pack and its lights out.
Wonderful thanks to Grant and Katy for their hospitality in Ponte Agli Stolli and their extended help to us in Rome. It just helped finish the trip off nicely!
Day 17 * Firenze in the Rain * 5/6/08
The day started brightly with first light and the sounds of swallows flying around the complex of buildings. Breakfast was a leisurely affair til Grant said time to go then we were off, or were we?
All piled into the hired Renault and it wouldn’t start. Battery? No, because it was clearly turning the engine over. Fuel was more than fine. The security system hadn’t been engaged but was checked again. In the end with a few of the neighbours looking on we pushed it back, then gave a run down the road - not a lot of room before it went steep. Grant let out the clutch but nothing seemed to happen but he tried the ignition again and it started just like new. Off to pick up the Audi so he could get to his Italian lessons, then Katy delivered us to the station. We had a wee wait, but it gave us time to check our tickets for tomorrow as well as the trip into Firenze, then a walk around the town a bit, a drink and it was time for the train. We were able to check out tomorrow’s train for seating arrangements which arrived before our one did. Then off we went. We prepared for the tunnels and instead got sunlit scenery as it took an alternative route in, stopping at all the little towns in between Figline and Firenze.
Katy had given us their PlusFirenze map which outlined important features, and she also gave us clues about queues (avoid them unless there is something you really want to see), churches (shorts not acceptable so you need trousers), beggars (it’s an old profession) and the overlap with the pickpockets (wear your backpack on your front and be aware of who is in your surroundings!). We decided on a walking route which would take us past churches, but not in them so I wore shorts for the day.
Florentines know how to build big. The churches, palaces and public buildings are amazing, especially those that have been maintained. What was also present that was unexpected, though Katy and Grant had mentioned it, were the tourists – they were everywhere (of course we are not really tourists either!!?) We wandered down lanes and vias, and in one street we were suddenly aware of all the brands Beneton, Versace, Prada, and others. Their products in the windows were all without price tags and we guessed that if you had to ask for the prices you needn’t bother going in.
The cars, buses, taxis and scooters all seemed to claim the whole road and dared you to cross in front of them. I’m reminded of Paul Hogan doing his thing with the dogs in New York in crocodile Dundee. All you needed to do was to catch their eye and stare these drivers down.
We wandered over the river and towards the Palazza Pitti and Boboli Gardens, and on the way found ourselves a neat little eating house with good food. Denise had bought an umbrella near the station, and as we finished the meal it started to spit. By the time we were at the Piazza of the Palace it was a bit more steady so I bought one of a Somali man who had materialised with a number of others with piles of umbrellas for sale. We went to get a ticket to see the gardens but couldn’t do them as a separate tour from one of the Palace’s sets of galleries, so decided to give it a miss. We ere enjoying the jumble of people, cars, smells, noise, history and modern kitschy stuff, as well as the wealth and opulence that comes from really old money.
This was most evident at the Ponte Vecchio where the goldsmiths and jewellers have their shops on the bridge over the river. I haven’t seen so much wealth on display in such a small area ever.
Turned right down the Medici Walk and then towards the city square. Got waylaid by a “statue,” a mime artist who would move and pose with you while your partner took a photo. Carried on past the queue formed for the Uffizi Galleries and into the square with statues galore. The copy of David, and many others all got included i a free range camera. Took another alley like street until we came to the main cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. The paintwork and sculpture and exterior were simply magnificent and I fear the photos haven’t done it justice. (We’ve bought postcards just in case!)
Then back to the station for coffee, one of the quickest I’ve ever had anywhere, a toilet stop in some of the grottiest I’ve ever been in, and then onto the train back to Figline.
The train did the tunnels this time and two windows on the carriage were down so our ears got a real pounding.
Got to Figline in another downpour and walked to the town square to meet up with Katy. While waiting I saw a sports shop and we went in. I found a nice pair of Adidas shoes which will do nicely for fencing for only €63. The assistant was most helpful and understood fencing as “skirma”, and helped me try on a few pair of different sorts.
We got back and played a bit with Sofia, then had “aperitivo” followed by our evening meal - a kind of bread, tomato, olive oil, garlic and basil slow baked dish, washed down with a good red or two.
Got the blog up to date on line and checked on emails. Sad to read Boyd Glassey had died. He had quite an influence on me over the years in different ways – some through Dad, some through counselling.
Then to bed to get ready for the adventure of going to Roma and homa!!
All piled into the hired Renault and it wouldn’t start. Battery? No, because it was clearly turning the engine over. Fuel was more than fine. The security system hadn’t been engaged but was checked again. In the end with a few of the neighbours looking on we pushed it back, then gave a run down the road - not a lot of room before it went steep. Grant let out the clutch but nothing seemed to happen but he tried the ignition again and it started just like new. Off to pick up the Audi so he could get to his Italian lessons, then Katy delivered us to the station. We had a wee wait, but it gave us time to check our tickets for tomorrow as well as the trip into Firenze, then a walk around the town a bit, a drink and it was time for the train. We were able to check out tomorrow’s train for seating arrangements which arrived before our one did. Then off we went. We prepared for the tunnels and instead got sunlit scenery as it took an alternative route in, stopping at all the little towns in between Figline and Firenze.
Katy had given us their PlusFirenze map which outlined important features, and she also gave us clues about queues (avoid them unless there is something you really want to see), churches (shorts not acceptable so you need trousers), beggars (it’s an old profession) and the overlap with the pickpockets (wear your backpack on your front and be aware of who is in your surroundings!). We decided on a walking route which would take us past churches, but not in them so I wore shorts for the day.
Florentines know how to build big. The churches, palaces and public buildings are amazing, especially those that have been maintained. What was also present that was unexpected, though Katy and Grant had mentioned it, were the tourists – they were everywhere (of course we are not really tourists either!!?) We wandered down lanes and vias, and in one street we were suddenly aware of all the brands Beneton, Versace, Prada, and others. Their products in the windows were all without price tags and we guessed that if you had to ask for the prices you needn’t bother going in.
The cars, buses, taxis and scooters all seemed to claim the whole road and dared you to cross in front of them. I’m reminded of Paul Hogan doing his thing with the dogs in New York in crocodile Dundee. All you needed to do was to catch their eye and stare these drivers down.
We wandered over the river and towards the Palazza Pitti and Boboli Gardens, and on the way found ourselves a neat little eating house with good food. Denise had bought an umbrella near the station, and as we finished the meal it started to spit. By the time we were at the Piazza of the Palace it was a bit more steady so I bought one of a Somali man who had materialised with a number of others with piles of umbrellas for sale. We went to get a ticket to see the gardens but couldn’t do them as a separate tour from one of the Palace’s sets of galleries, so decided to give it a miss. We ere enjoying the jumble of people, cars, smells, noise, history and modern kitschy stuff, as well as the wealth and opulence that comes from really old money.
This was most evident at the Ponte Vecchio where the goldsmiths and jewellers have their shops on the bridge over the river. I haven’t seen so much wealth on display in such a small area ever.
Turned right down the Medici Walk and then towards the city square. Got waylaid by a “statue,” a mime artist who would move and pose with you while your partner took a photo. Carried on past the queue formed for the Uffizi Galleries and into the square with statues galore. The copy of David, and many others all got included i a free range camera. Took another alley like street until we came to the main cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. The paintwork and sculpture and exterior were simply magnificent and I fear the photos haven’t done it justice. (We’ve bought postcards just in case!)
Then back to the station for coffee, one of the quickest I’ve ever had anywhere, a toilet stop in some of the grottiest I’ve ever been in, and then onto the train back to Figline.
The train did the tunnels this time and two windows on the carriage were down so our ears got a real pounding.
Got to Figline in another downpour and walked to the town square to meet up with Katy. While waiting I saw a sports shop and we went in. I found a nice pair of Adidas shoes which will do nicely for fencing for only €63. The assistant was most helpful and understood fencing as “skirma”, and helped me try on a few pair of different sorts.
We got back and played a bit with Sofia, then had “aperitivo” followed by our evening meal - a kind of bread, tomato, olive oil, garlic and basil slow baked dish, washed down with a good red or two.
Got the blog up to date on line and checked on emails. Sad to read Boyd Glassey had died. He had quite an influence on me over the years in different ways – some through Dad, some through counselling.
Then to bed to get ready for the adventure of going to Roma and homa!!
Thursday, June 5, 2008
Day 16 * Exploring a Tuscan village and countryside * 4/6/08
We woke at about 6 with birds singing merrily, but dropped back off to sleep to find us reawakening at 8.30. Showers, breakfast, talk and then it was off for a walk around the village and surrounding area. Katy told us much about everything and was an excellent guide. The walk took us up to the winery of the brand we drank for dinner last night. Fascinating seeing lizards just sitting in the sun. Then it was back to the village and up to the top with a view of the old monastery being converted into apartments, and also the estate of the one and only Sting, and Grant’s employers hotel. On the way we stopped at a place that breeds tortoises in their backyard.
Katy and Grant’s dealings with Italian bureaucracy seemed amazing & funny now, but not during the whole process, but then they’ve perfected their systems over many centuries and as Katy observed, despite the frustration of how many bits of paper they seemed to want, it was always easier than trying to argue the point, because the officials would just put up the shutters.
Then back home for a lunch of buffalo mozarella and tomato, olive oil and basil, and a nana nap. Haven’t had a lot of chance for those.
After the nap and afternoon tea, it was off for a bit of an explore, picking up a rental car from Tiripelli Motors where we experienced first hand how the Italian lifestyle and love of bureaucracy worked, and we ended up at Montevarchi at the Ipercoop doing the shopping thing. It was rather like The Warehouse gone big and mad with supermarket and everything else besides.
Back to Figline through he Italian rush hour traffic, which wasn’t so bad once you realised what the rules were, & found a park near the station. Then we walked around the town for a wee while, saw the lovely town square with the house that referred to Marsello Ficino the Italian renaissance philosopher, and then headed to the station to pick up Grant coming back from a training session in Venice. Driving back through Figline I noticed a street named after Antonio Gramsci, a modern philosopher who tried to humanise Marxism for Italy.
Back at Ponte Agli Stolle it was BBQ time with chicken, steak and sausage, with Sofia performing as a wee tired lady in the background. Dinner was very pleasant but then it was ten o’clock and Denise started to nod off so for us – time for bed, and another happy day in this Tuscan paradise.
Katy and Grant’s dealings with Italian bureaucracy seemed amazing & funny now, but not during the whole process, but then they’ve perfected their systems over many centuries and as Katy observed, despite the frustration of how many bits of paper they seemed to want, it was always easier than trying to argue the point, because the officials would just put up the shutters.
Then back home for a lunch of buffalo mozarella and tomato, olive oil and basil, and a nana nap. Haven’t had a lot of chance for those.
After the nap and afternoon tea, it was off for a bit of an explore, picking up a rental car from Tiripelli Motors where we experienced first hand how the Italian lifestyle and love of bureaucracy worked, and we ended up at Montevarchi at the Ipercoop doing the shopping thing. It was rather like The Warehouse gone big and mad with supermarket and everything else besides.
Back to Figline through he Italian rush hour traffic, which wasn’t so bad once you realised what the rules were, & found a park near the station. Then we walked around the town for a wee while, saw the lovely town square with the house that referred to Marsello Ficino the Italian renaissance philosopher, and then headed to the station to pick up Grant coming back from a training session in Venice. Driving back through Figline I noticed a street named after Antonio Gramsci, a modern philosopher who tried to humanise Marxism for Italy.
Back at Ponte Agli Stolle it was BBQ time with chicken, steak and sausage, with Sofia performing as a wee tired lady in the background. Dinner was very pleasant but then it was ten o’clock and Denise started to nod off so for us – time for bed, and another happy day in this Tuscan paradise.
Day 15 * A Train or Two to Tuscany * 3/6/08
This was on the itinerary as possibly the most difficult for travelling, with two connections in Switzerland and two in Italy.
We began with breakfast with the Friebe’s and said good-bye to Paul, Margrit and Susann, and the Coopers and went back to the hotel to do the last minute packing. Kathrin and Philippe (brother) came down and collected us and took us to the station at Frauenfeld so that was one connection less to worry about - there is only 2–3 minutes between the Wängi train and the train to Zurich.
So there we were, ready to go and only these last good-byes, with heaps of photos. It has been wonderful seeing Kathrin again as this mature young married woman, full of confidence, and while we were sad to finally be leaving , we were glad to have been with them all for this wonderful wedding. Meeting her husband Philippe has also been nice and we have been able to make the odd joke about having two sets of in-laws.
One good thing about going by train is that when it arrives you’ve got to get on and it goes, so with final hugs and waves we were Zurich bound.
Then after three days of travel on Swiss trains we finally got our Eurrail pass stamped by a conductor. It means we’ve officially got 4 days of travel left and only three to do it all in.
Zurich station was cruisey as we had time to be able to buy some fruit and stuff, get films at an exorbitant price and buy a Swiss Army knife so we could slice the sausage and cheese onto the sandwiches Margrit had prepared for us. We boarded our train, the Cis Alpino, for Milano and were off, having carefully packed our Swiss map so that we ended up writing down station names in order to remember which way we went.
Not long after Zug we were in mountain country and started climbing through the Alps. It was a natural version of the baroque church experience of going “Wow look at that”, except we were facing each other and got two different perspectives of the scenery. Speedy trains don’t help your photography skills and I’ve already deleted several blurs from the card. The we were in the Gotthard where the train wends its way past Wässen three times going through these amazingly long tunnels, and each time the town is further below you, on the right, the left, the right, with the church standing out as a constant feature.
Then down into Logorno and this amazing picture postcard setting of city, lake and mountains. All through that part of the trip the waterfalls had been bringing down the spring melt, and at one point saw where the road went through a tunnel with the waterfall going over the top of the tunnel.
The train stopped at Chiasso for passport control. A young man from Christchurch in the seat in front was asked what he was doing, why he was travelling and whether he had anything to declare. The a Swiss couple who had left stuff next to him and sat elsewhere in the carriage, got a the full shake down, getting their rights read, and then they came to us, took one look at us and passed on, so I’m not sure what we’ve got that everyone else hasn’t - all we want is a stamp in our passport!
Then we were out of the mountains and onto the industrial strip of the north going down into Milano. Got off the train and started looking for the next one. There are two sets of timetables - the permanent paper ones in glass cases and the ones on the main board. I managed to have us heading each time today in the direction of the theoretical platform, rather than where the train was actually leaving from. It didn’t matter that much as we had plenty of time for the interchange. Then off to Firenze.
First class in Italy seems to be used by everyone, whereas on the Swiss trains there always seemed to be room in first class. This train seemed to have lots of business types on it all pulling out their laptops, doing the Internet and chatting on their mobiles. The scenery reminded me a bit of the American mid-West with everything flat and no distant landmarks , except that the houses looked a very much lot older. The very elegant lady opposite us gave us little bits of help and as we came into Bologna she pointed out the great church of St Luca which sits on a hill overlooking the city, and she clearly thought we should know something about her home city. She bade us farewell and it was on our way again. Finally people started making moves to get off so I went to rescue the bags from the luggage space. I looked out the window to see we were going to get off in a huge downpour that had caught everyone by surprise.
Denise had got out another door so she didn’t have to struggle through the carriage, but where I was, the door refused to open so I had to go through to the next carriage. But there we were, and the signage seemed a bit limited so we asked a platform assistant who told us which train to look for – paper vs electronic Again! We bought a sandwich and muffin and found our connection, climbed on and off we went waiting expectantly for the Tuscan countryside to appear. It wasn’t the rain that stopped the view but the amazingly long tunnels, 2 or 3, from which the train emerged almost at Figline Valdarno. Got off the train and followed the crowds and got a txt from Katy saying she was held up in traffic. As we were standing in a car park we presumed that is where she’d come, but after a little while thought she could be on the other side by the station. As I went through the tunnel to check I got a txt to that effect.
A quick drive through the town & countryside and we were at Katy and Grant’s place in Ponte Agli Stolle with little Sofia doing her “impress the visitors” tricks. She is a darling.
An evening meal and off to bed a bit travel weary but happy.
We began with breakfast with the Friebe’s and said good-bye to Paul, Margrit and Susann, and the Coopers and went back to the hotel to do the last minute packing. Kathrin and Philippe (brother) came down and collected us and took us to the station at Frauenfeld so that was one connection less to worry about - there is only 2–3 minutes between the Wängi train and the train to Zurich.
So there we were, ready to go and only these last good-byes, with heaps of photos. It has been wonderful seeing Kathrin again as this mature young married woman, full of confidence, and while we were sad to finally be leaving , we were glad to have been with them all for this wonderful wedding. Meeting her husband Philippe has also been nice and we have been able to make the odd joke about having two sets of in-laws.
One good thing about going by train is that when it arrives you’ve got to get on and it goes, so with final hugs and waves we were Zurich bound.
Then after three days of travel on Swiss trains we finally got our Eurrail pass stamped by a conductor. It means we’ve officially got 4 days of travel left and only three to do it all in.
Zurich station was cruisey as we had time to be able to buy some fruit and stuff, get films at an exorbitant price and buy a Swiss Army knife so we could slice the sausage and cheese onto the sandwiches Margrit had prepared for us. We boarded our train, the Cis Alpino, for Milano and were off, having carefully packed our Swiss map so that we ended up writing down station names in order to remember which way we went.
Not long after Zug we were in mountain country and started climbing through the Alps. It was a natural version of the baroque church experience of going “Wow look at that”, except we were facing each other and got two different perspectives of the scenery. Speedy trains don’t help your photography skills and I’ve already deleted several blurs from the card. The we were in the Gotthard where the train wends its way past Wässen three times going through these amazingly long tunnels, and each time the town is further below you, on the right, the left, the right, with the church standing out as a constant feature.
Then down into Logorno and this amazing picture postcard setting of city, lake and mountains. All through that part of the trip the waterfalls had been bringing down the spring melt, and at one point saw where the road went through a tunnel with the waterfall going over the top of the tunnel.
The train stopped at Chiasso for passport control. A young man from Christchurch in the seat in front was asked what he was doing, why he was travelling and whether he had anything to declare. The a Swiss couple who had left stuff next to him and sat elsewhere in the carriage, got a the full shake down, getting their rights read, and then they came to us, took one look at us and passed on, so I’m not sure what we’ve got that everyone else hasn’t - all we want is a stamp in our passport!
Then we were out of the mountains and onto the industrial strip of the north going down into Milano. Got off the train and started looking for the next one. There are two sets of timetables - the permanent paper ones in glass cases and the ones on the main board. I managed to have us heading each time today in the direction of the theoretical platform, rather than where the train was actually leaving from. It didn’t matter that much as we had plenty of time for the interchange. Then off to Firenze.
First class in Italy seems to be used by everyone, whereas on the Swiss trains there always seemed to be room in first class. This train seemed to have lots of business types on it all pulling out their laptops, doing the Internet and chatting on their mobiles. The scenery reminded me a bit of the American mid-West with everything flat and no distant landmarks , except that the houses looked a very much lot older. The very elegant lady opposite us gave us little bits of help and as we came into Bologna she pointed out the great church of St Luca which sits on a hill overlooking the city, and she clearly thought we should know something about her home city. She bade us farewell and it was on our way again. Finally people started making moves to get off so I went to rescue the bags from the luggage space. I looked out the window to see we were going to get off in a huge downpour that had caught everyone by surprise.
Denise had got out another door so she didn’t have to struggle through the carriage, but where I was, the door refused to open so I had to go through to the next carriage. But there we were, and the signage seemed a bit limited so we asked a platform assistant who told us which train to look for – paper vs electronic Again! We bought a sandwich and muffin and found our connection, climbed on and off we went waiting expectantly for the Tuscan countryside to appear. It wasn’t the rain that stopped the view but the amazingly long tunnels, 2 or 3, from which the train emerged almost at Figline Valdarno. Got off the train and followed the crowds and got a txt from Katy saying she was held up in traffic. As we were standing in a car park we presumed that is where she’d come, but after a little while thought she could be on the other side by the station. As I went through the tunnel to check I got a txt to that effect.
A quick drive through the town & countryside and we were at Katy and Grant’s place in Ponte Agli Stolle with little Sofia doing her “impress the visitors” tricks. She is a darling.
An evening meal and off to bed a bit travel weary but happy.
Day 14 * A Day in Appenzell * 2/6/08
After breakfast it was into the three cars and off to Appenzell for the day. Denise & I travelled with Margrit. She took us through her father & grandfather's village of Hündwil, then into Appenzell town for a brief stop & on to Ebenalp. Hündwil was the last village in Appenzell Canton (which was the last canton to do it also) to give women the vote and did this in 1987. Today the village still manages its affairs by a public meeting and show of hands for any vote. We took the gondola to the top of Ebenalp, 1600 m. The view was more stunning than I remembered, partly through the weather, but also the spring pastures were lush green with their flowers in bloom, and the winter snow still on the melt, with a few waterfalls to be seen as well.
We walked around the top, saw some rock-climbers and a few birds called Alpen-raben, quite different from the common Rabens, or ravens. These ones were swooping over us quite closely & Philippe said they were looking for cheese & would take it from the hand.
Margrit arranged for us all to have lunch at the restaurant there & we had the noodle dish Denise had the other nite without the mince and with more cheese!!– much nicer.
After lunch we went down the path and through a cave where a giant bear fossil had been found, to the Wildkirchli. Terry didn't like heights & stayed back. Mary & Margrit were having fun chasing alpine flowers & butterflies (Schmettering). The cave & chapel were still impressive. The chapel had been there some centuries & became the focal point for a hermit monastic colony. The preacher’s house was a 2 room hut joined to the side of the mountain. Mary, Denise & I went a little lower & coming round a corner found ourselves facing another guesthouse. Coming back up was more difficult for Denise than I thought it would be, her lungs struggling in the thinner air.But she said it had been worth it (when she got her breath back!).
Back on to the gondola at the top where it was a mild 19° & down to the bottom with the temperature now 25°. From there it was back to Appenzell & danger territory for cameras that seemed to have a mind of their own. Souvenir shopping in Post Card Switzerland. We spent a good hour or so wandering around along with heaps of other tourists of all types. By now the temperature was well over 30º and in one shop window facing the sun their thermometer read 42º
A wee drive to one of the Appenzell cheese factories where we saw a movie incorporating some tradional customs and the modern techniques, saw some cheese being presses, more souvenirs, then a sleepy drive home.
Dinner was BBQ organised by Philippe, Susann, & Kathrin. Pork, sausage & horse, all with a tuna & barley salad & mixed braised vegetables, more wine & water. The Friebes have fed us well all week and their hospitality has been overwhelming.
We lasted till Paul came home from work at 10 pm, then back to the hotel. We settled the account (CHF 480) then the chef offered me some salami & when I said it was good, got presented with three salamis. Wow! It was their honour to have us stay with them.
We walked around the top, saw some rock-climbers and a few birds called Alpen-raben, quite different from the common Rabens, or ravens. These ones were swooping over us quite closely & Philippe said they were looking for cheese & would take it from the hand.
Margrit arranged for us all to have lunch at the restaurant there & we had the noodle dish Denise had the other nite without the mince and with more cheese!!– much nicer.
After lunch we went down the path and through a cave where a giant bear fossil had been found, to the Wildkirchli. Terry didn't like heights & stayed back. Mary & Margrit were having fun chasing alpine flowers & butterflies (Schmettering). The cave & chapel were still impressive. The chapel had been there some centuries & became the focal point for a hermit monastic colony. The preacher’s house was a 2 room hut joined to the side of the mountain. Mary, Denise & I went a little lower & coming round a corner found ourselves facing another guesthouse. Coming back up was more difficult for Denise than I thought it would be, her lungs struggling in the thinner air.But she said it had been worth it (when she got her breath back!).
Back on to the gondola at the top where it was a mild 19° & down to the bottom with the temperature now 25°. From there it was back to Appenzell & danger territory for cameras that seemed to have a mind of their own. Souvenir shopping in Post Card Switzerland. We spent a good hour or so wandering around along with heaps of other tourists of all types. By now the temperature was well over 30º and in one shop window facing the sun their thermometer read 42º
A wee drive to one of the Appenzell cheese factories where we saw a movie incorporating some tradional customs and the modern techniques, saw some cheese being presses, more souvenirs, then a sleepy drive home.
Dinner was BBQ organised by Philippe, Susann, & Kathrin. Pork, sausage & horse, all with a tuna & barley salad & mixed braised vegetables, more wine & water. The Friebes have fed us well all week and their hospitality has been overwhelming.
We lasted till Paul came home from work at 10 pm, then back to the hotel. We settled the account (CHF 480) then the chef offered me some salami & when I said it was good, got presented with three salamis. Wow! It was their honour to have us stay with them.
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Day 13* Unteragerisee and a Tour back to Wangi
After a refreshing sleep, we rose and went down to a sumptuous breakfast, with lots of good espresso to help it down. The Friebe’s had a bit of work getting presents back to Bonstetten and cleaning up at the hotel, and at the church to complete, so we were left to our own devices. We went to check out only to find our bill had been settled by Paul. Their reasoning was that the Coopers and we had already paid enough to come to the wedding, and it was their honour to have us. We accepted this most gracious gift to us. We’ve all four of us experienced a real generosity of spirit being extended to us, not just by the Friebe’s but by all the Swiss we’ve met.
Denise and I went walking in and around the town and the edge of the lake and finished up back at the hotel where I had a first attempt to get some photos on to the Internet. The walk gave us some much needed exercise through some meadows, but not to the lake edge. Back in town Denise bought some lunch and we walked the other direction to where we got on the boat, and found a delightful setting in front of the fountain and looking up at the surrounding hillside with its houses and fields and forests. Going around the lake had reminded us all very much of parts of the Sounds, with deep green water and forest down to the edge with the odd house on the shoreline.
Then back to the hotel and we began writing our journals and sharing reflections until Paul and Margrit arrived to take us all back to Wängi.
We had four tourist stops along the way. The first was above the city of Rapperswil at one end of the Zurichsee and which I managed to insist was Zurich – a third time being totally 180º disoriented!? Paul and Margrit found it very amusing and so did Denise – NOT!
The second was going up the side of the Iddaborg mountain and there was a view of some of the Alps including the mountain Santis, 2900 m, and with a restaurant on the top.
The third stop was at Iddaborg itself. It is on one of the old pilgrim ways and has a shrine to Idda, a woman who was accused by her husband of being unfaithful so he threw her off the top, but instead of falling to her death she fell into a grotto just below and was saved (though apparently it was really the work of angels and Mary). We walked down to the shrine and thanks to some hymn sheets there I became Catholic for a moment and sang a couple of verses of the Ave Maria in Geman. The acoustics were lovely. Then back up to the top and into the small church which has a black Madonna. It is the only one in central Europe and the most easterly one. I think they think it was brought by Spanish pilgrims. We followed this with tea and coffee and reluctantly it was agreed that Terry would be allowed to pay.
Back into the cars and down to the monastery at Fischingen. Last visit the church was closed but this time it wasn’t and a full Baroque church in all its breathtaking glory was revealed.
Finally we got home and there Kathrin and Philippe with the help of Susann and brother Philippe had prepared the evening meal – lasagne.
A moment of horror though, for me, I tried to get some photos of the wedding onto the net and found that the last 200 taken are unable to be opened off the memory stick. I tried again back at the hotel and still no luck. I can still see everything I’ve taken so I’m not sure what I can do. I’m hoping when I get home I can recover them via the USB connection.
On our return to the hotel, our host Herr Haffner was waiting and invited me to join him for a glass of beer. This I did and we had a long conversation about life in New Zealand and Switzerland. Time for bed.
Denise and I went walking in and around the town and the edge of the lake and finished up back at the hotel where I had a first attempt to get some photos on to the Internet. The walk gave us some much needed exercise through some meadows, but not to the lake edge. Back in town Denise bought some lunch and we walked the other direction to where we got on the boat, and found a delightful setting in front of the fountain and looking up at the surrounding hillside with its houses and fields and forests. Going around the lake had reminded us all very much of parts of the Sounds, with deep green water and forest down to the edge with the odd house on the shoreline.
Then back to the hotel and we began writing our journals and sharing reflections until Paul and Margrit arrived to take us all back to Wängi.
We had four tourist stops along the way. The first was above the city of Rapperswil at one end of the Zurichsee and which I managed to insist was Zurich – a third time being totally 180º disoriented!? Paul and Margrit found it very amusing and so did Denise – NOT!
The second was going up the side of the Iddaborg mountain and there was a view of some of the Alps including the mountain Santis, 2900 m, and with a restaurant on the top.
The third stop was at Iddaborg itself. It is on one of the old pilgrim ways and has a shrine to Idda, a woman who was accused by her husband of being unfaithful so he threw her off the top, but instead of falling to her death she fell into a grotto just below and was saved (though apparently it was really the work of angels and Mary). We walked down to the shrine and thanks to some hymn sheets there I became Catholic for a moment and sang a couple of verses of the Ave Maria in Geman. The acoustics were lovely. Then back up to the top and into the small church which has a black Madonna. It is the only one in central Europe and the most easterly one. I think they think it was brought by Spanish pilgrims. We followed this with tea and coffee and reluctantly it was agreed that Terry would be allowed to pay.
Back into the cars and down to the monastery at Fischingen. Last visit the church was closed but this time it wasn’t and a full Baroque church in all its breathtaking glory was revealed.
Finally we got home and there Kathrin and Philippe with the help of Susann and brother Philippe had prepared the evening meal – lasagne.
A moment of horror though, for me, I tried to get some photos of the wedding onto the net and found that the last 200 taken are unable to be opened off the memory stick. I tried again back at the hotel and still no luck. I can still see everything I’ve taken so I’m not sure what I can do. I’m hoping when I get home I can recover them via the USB connection.
On our return to the hotel, our host Herr Haffner was waiting and invited me to join him for a glass of beer. This I did and we had a long conversation about life in New Zealand and Switzerland. Time for bed.
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